Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 350 GT Nissan skyline 2003 import it is running is safe mode, I have had it to one mechanic and his computer told me it was a stepper motor fault can't find one anywhere. took it to a transmission place he had it for a week and gave up stating it stuck in third, it's a lovely car and i would love to put it back on the road but can't get it to drive any ideas    

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479112-50-gt-skyline-sedan/
Share on other sites

Replacement of the stepper motor in the CVT  will cost a few bucks. Probably only a Nissan dealer will have the scanner that will pinpoint the problem so pay the money for a scan. Then try to find a better auto transmission repair shop for a quote on the repair.

My local shop could do it but its in Auckland NZ.

Here's a motor if you want to have a go yourself( look around on ebay ...some of the ads have the gearbox no so see if you can find the number of your transmission. Obviously they all come freight free from China or you could order through Nissan for much more money (or get a second hand tranny - but a second hand CVT???!!!) :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmission-CVT-Step-Stepper-Motor-Fits-for-Nissan-Altima-Maxima-Murano-G9Q3/184024592323?epid=11035033092&hash=item2ad8b86fc3:g:HIAAAOSwA3ddwlUt

or:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Replaceable-JF009E-Motor-CVT-Step-Stepper-Motor-For-Nissan-Altima-Maxima-Murano/183887427296?epid=18033871363&hash=item2ad08b76e0:g:zAcAAOSwN2ZdLo4S

or you should be able to order it though Nissan for megabucks.

13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Are you sure that the stepper motor in question is part of the CVT? There are at least 2 other options. Idle control and throttle or traction control.

It could be the tranny's stepper, but if it is, it will be inside it. So....you won't find it without some spanners.

Had it on to computers now only one could connect and it said the stepper motor. I don't know what else to to do the Transmission place in Underwood is I'm told one of the best and he gave up I just thought someone must have had the same thing happen to them so I turned to this forum.  I have had the stepper motor out it's easy in this car but it's back in there so I could move the car. 

Edited by Col Shaw
add content
1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Did you read my post? Are you going to buy a stepper motor?

I did read the post they don't have the one I need they cam close with one but not the right one trust me I look and was praying they had it but no luck, have attached some shots mate if yo can do better then me I would be very greatfull.

20181224_155137 (2).jpg

20181224_155202.jpg

20181121_154634.jpg

Fair enough .

Have you had a read of this?

https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/stop-wasting-money-on-jatco-cvt-stepper-motors/

I assume since you have had the stepper motor out you have changed the (special) cvt fluid and filter.

If you have the energy you could follow this article. test the stepper motor and clean the valve body.

Have you got a price from Nissan for the stepper motor should it be required?

30 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Fair enough .

Have you had a read of this?

https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/stop-wasting-money-on-jatco-cvt-stepper-motors/

I assume since you have had the stepper motor out you have changed the (special) cvt fluid and filter.

If you have the energy you could follow this article. test the stepper motor and clean the valve body.

Have you got a price from Nissan for the stepper motor should it be required?

I did speak to Nissan at Northlakes but they didn't have any answers for me they said they had no information on this car it's an import so I started looking around for my self I keep getting told to give up and scrap it but I'd like to see it on road.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...