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Ok guys I have had a few e-mails about my piping I did for my car so I thought I would post a few pics and give you guys some info on how to do it.

Now this is for an R32 for a 600X300X76 cooler using the existing pipe work but I got my info from another guy on these forums and he did for an R33.

You will need these tools

· Falthead screwdriver

· Phillips head screwdriver

· Stanley knife

· Hacksaw

· And another set of hands (like a friends)

Products you will need

This is all for 2 ½ inch pipe from any good exhaust shop

· 2 to 3 foot of straight pipe

· 2 45 degree bends

· 2 90 degree bends

· 1 180 degree bend

· radiator hose clamps get around 10(cant remember there names)

· silcone hose all depends on how much u want to use

· and 2 reduces or you can make them by putting a 2 ½ piece of silcone inside a 3 inch silcone pipe works fine that’s what ive done

I fitted my cooler straight on to my front bar support it holds great then I made some brackets that secure to the engine support underneath the cooler.

Now that the new cooler is on take the old cooler of and trust me this is a pain but after it is off you will have to cut the intake piping at the start of the 2 holes in your chasis and then cut the out take pipe so it sticks out by about 300 mm now join the 2 45 degree bends to each pipe with a silcone connector then join the 2 90 degree bends to the end of the 45 degree bends and one of your pipes should line up with your cooler so connect it up.

Now that that is done find out how much of the straight pipe you need and cut to size once you have cut it join that onto the other 90 degree bend then join the 180 degree bend to the other end of the straight pipe then connect it to the other intake of the cooler and you have finished.

This is a rough guide PLEASE only take it as a guide and not an installation manual cause your car could be different to mine but this should help you,make sure you think about everything before you do it cause some pipes are hard to connect and you might have to cut more pipes than I did.

If you have any questions then ask away I will try and answer them as best I can.

Put aside 1 to 2 days for this task and you may need to alter your bar aswell.

If anyone else has done this before or do it and find I have missed something then let me know.

Also have a look at the pics the may help.

Thanks

Wados (wade)

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snailperformance- the answer is no i actually found less lag i got more response out of the car but i have heared a few people say they get some lag but not enough to notice.

david kemps- that is the return pipe i used the old cooler piping so it has to go back to that side its cheaper and easier to do it this way

ive never been a fan of this type of FMIC set up. your job looks great and im sure it work fine but i would prefer the front facing plenum and less pipe work.

just my opinion but congrats on a job well done. i love people who have the balls to DIY :)

warwick- the reason for the cut is because i stuffed up i cut the 180 bend and i shouldnt have.

Height is not a problem it sits inside the front bar so it is all ok beside the parking with the cement pillars at the end of them

ive never been a fan of this type of FMIC set up. your job looks great and im sure it work fine but i would prefer the front facing plenum and less pipe work.

Most of the pre-packaged piping setups you see from the major manufacturers (Trust, HKS, etc) wrap around the front of the engine and things anyway to the standard TB position. So basically up round, and across again. The setup wados has just wraps around the back of the cooler, and not the actual engine bay itself, so in fact may be better for heat disipation in the piping.

Front facing has the advantage yeah, but when you cost in the new plenum, it gets pretty expensive. For mild setups I reckon this would work fine :)

wados, do you remember the name of the guy on this forum who done it for his 33. Also i believe that set up is very neat and efficient in that if you do want the front facing plenum in the future you could always make new pipes to go over the engine bay.

i worked ths out pretty roughly

front facing plenum (locally made) - $500

hybrid copy FMIC - $400

pipework, silicone joiners and clamps - $400

that works out to be $1300 so its not that expensive

just my thoughts anyway :)

i worked ths out pretty roughly

 

front facing plenum (locally made) - $500

hybrid copy FMIC - $400

pipework, silicone joiners and clamps - $400

 

that works out to be $1300 so its not that expensive

 

just my thoughts anyway :)

it would be less for pipe work and silcone i paid around $240 all up

nozila- check lazy bastards pics out he was the one who did it before me on his 33 look up a couple of posts and u will see him

i got this same pipework made up by www.ntperformance.com.au in Victoria

the guys name is simon tahitis

i live in sydney and got it made up for $250+$40 postage (still the cheapest i could find). he did all the pipe work and included 2 hoses and 4 clamps. if anyone wants it done he said it would be cheaper if a few people went it. however, i was lucky and there was a r32 in the workshop when i needed my piping so he just copied it

  • 3 weeks later...

I have some pics of the job I did on my R33 here if anyone is interested.

The final configuration has changed a little since the pictures were taken but you get the general idea.

My advice is to use T-Bolt hose clamps not the crap ones with the hex head/flathead fastener, as I had some teething problems using the cheaper ones, where they would blow off the piping under high boost conditions (not much fun and rather embarassing when you're hard up it on a mountain run or halfway down the track at Willowbank :Oops: )

In the pictures shown here I have used a 2.5" donut for the 180 and 90 degree bends, but there isn't really enough "meat" left after the bend to clamp the silicone hose to, which is probably part of the reason the piping was blowing off.

For the final incarnation I used the 180 degree bend shown in the picture and took it to an exhaust shop and had them weld an extra few inches onto each end so I had more straight pipe to clamp the silicone hose to. The 90 degree bends I swapped for proper prefabricated ones which have a decent amount of straight pipe on either side of the bend, again, to get more clamping area.

The next door neighbour is getting a welder in the next couple of weeks, so like Dan, I am going to weld a couple of the joins shortly and then maybe get the pipes powdercoated.

Excuse the pic size.....still haven't worked out the thumbnail thing :D

8870intercooler_007-med.jpg8870intercooler_004-med.jpg

8870intercooler_001-med.jpg

8870intercooler_002-med.jpg

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