Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So im about to purchase a 30 for a e36 25/30 build and was wondering a few things so my questions are 

  • will a rb25 wiring loom need much changing apart from the e36 side of things? (ill be ordering a e36 rb25 loom)
  • for a 25 box i just need a 25 slave and starter?
  • is haltec the only real way to go ecu wise or could i nistune a 25 ecu
  • what power can stock studs handle
  • is there a reason i shouldnt use a n/a 25 head and ecu if i dont want to turbo it straight away

above all that i dont want to make big power straight away just want it to be usable 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479259-rb2530-build-questions/
Share on other sites

RB25 ECU cannot be Nistuned. You can use a Nistuned R32 ECU, with a little fiddling. Going to that effort, you should probably just use a Haltech/Link/whatever the first time. You will not get a 3L to run off a 25 NA ECU.

All RB starters fit.

Don't worry about the studs. But if you are mating a different head to a different block, then you have a prize opportunity to put ARP studs in at the outset. Don't think about it as spending more money than you need to. Think about it simply as being a bloody good idea.

There's nothing wrong with using an NA head. The best choice used to be the (now rather hard to find) R32 RB25 NA head (because no VCT).

The wiring loom, for the most part, attaches to shit on the head. Not the block. But don't go into this thinking that you won't  have to sort out some plugs and shit here and there.

i think s2  stageas and er34 rbs are supported with nisture and is there a major issue with a n/a ecu?

yeah someone mentioned rb30 starters dying using a 25 gbox is all

and yeah studs and a few other things were on the books just weather or not to do it now or later i dont know as the head will likely come off within six months for better pistons and rods 

as for the loom yeah i already have to modify the loom im getting from wiring specialties as the e36 dash needs a bmw sensor to replace a nissan one on the motor

Neo ECU is for Neo, not vanilla 25. Has some sensors that the vanilla one doesn't have, leading you to have to dick around to try to make it work. Just skip it. Do the ECU properly.

NA ECU, or any ECU for a 2.5L motor, should not be expected to fuel a 3L motor correctly without tuning. Vanilla RB25 ECUs cannot be tuned (easily - certainly don't take Nistune), ergo, they should not be contemplated for this sort of job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...