Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, im having an issue with my rb20det before 4k revs it felt very boggy and then after 4k revs it felt fine till 6k then it felt like it had no power

it has a 25det gearbox and a r34 neo turbo fmic 3inch exhuast

 

ive tried to turn boost up and down didnt do anything ive also tried resetting timing and the timing was off but now its set but its become worse where if it gets any boost at all if just boggs down

 

have no idea what this could be or what to even look up any help is appreciated

Just now, wildeagle44 said:

Could be a boost leak or it might be pulling timing. Have you checked for fault codes?

havent checked for fault codes as dont have the right reader for r32 dont think its a boost leak as boost doesnt fall off or anything

R32 ECU diagnostic can be triggered with a screwdriver or a paper clip. Read all about it.

It will be a boost leak, or a dying fuel pump as #1 suspects.

After that, it is absolutely everything else in the engine bay. all the usual suspects. read all about it.

Just now, GTSBoy said:

R32 ECU diagnostic can be triggered with a screwdriver or a paper clip. Read all about it.

It will be a boost leak, or a dying fuel pump as #1 suspects.

After that, it is absolutely everything else in the engine bay. all the usual suspects. read all about it.

yeah i suspect fuel pump or the regulator, i was told to block off the regulator return and see if problem still happens

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drive it under load. This is proper diagnosis, not half-baled diagnosis. If the pressure doesn't do what it is supposed to do, then you blame the pump. Your reg is very unlikely to be crook.

alright ill try do that, i just did a ecu diagnostics and got code 34 which is knock sensor 

Just now, GTSBoy said:

Bypass knock sensor with (500k resistor - I think. Look it up, it's findable). If the knock sensor is crook and it's running on the knock map, it will feel doughy. This should make it feel better. Then you  just buy a new one.

I just had a look and I actually have no knock sensor loom at all, both knock sensors are there just no loom, going to borrow a friends and see if that fixes my issues. Have never had a check engine light tho but its always had this issue since I owned the car so its never had knock sensor loom.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...