Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all. Used to be a member long time ago. Looking at buying a mid 80s skyline.

does anyone recommend a mobile inspector in Adelaide who knows their old skylines assuming I won’t be able to take the car to a shop. Or an experienced known member willing to, happy to pay. The garage where the car is in has a hoist. 
 

ive never bought a car from interstate and sort of nervous as car is unreg and been in storage but done the ppsr vin engine no etc etc all checks out even the export cert. any help would be greatly appreciated. 
 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479533-inspecting-a-skyline-interstate-sa/
Share on other sites

Depending on the model, you would want it to go to a Skyline specialist shop (within reason).

I have had bought both my cars from interstate. Both cars were inspected by reputable workshops (Galvsport & CRD). 

If you're at the other end of the spectrum (clapped out R31 for $500), you could probably just go for a normal NRMA/RAC test. 

I'm sorry i don't have any specific workshops for you, but you can try these threads, 

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54061-best-adelaide-skyline-workshops/

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431425-reputable-workshop-in-adelaide/

Alternately here is the search.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/search/?q=Adelaide Workshop&fromCSE=1

Most of these are probably pretty old, so make sure you check google and facebook reviews of places. Good luck.

1 hour ago, NCRAW said:

Thanks Steve much appreciated. Where u there when you bought interstate or left it to the shop and organised transport? 

No problemos. 
I live in Melbourne and bought a car from Perth (Galvsport) and from Sydney (CRD). 

To be super clear, I did an insane amount of homework on both cars (in terms of modifications for the LM and the history of the Silver GTR), to the point where i knew the background of both better or as well as the sellers. 

Once I was happy with the cars inspections, I was planning to go and see them both and buy in person. Unfortunately, my life dictated otherwise. For the LM, I flew to a mine-site for 4 weeks straight and for the KR4 GTR, I purchased it around xmas, so my availability and that of the seller was not compatible. 

For the LM, I made the purchase, once the car was stored at Glavsport. That way, I owned the car, and it was in a workshop I trusted until it was shipped over by Galvsport. 
For the KR4, I did it differently, I put down a deposit, then arranged my own transport (Allens Car Carriers I think, i can dig it out if you need it), once I had it all booked in ready to go. I paid the day before at 4pm in full. Car carrier showed up and took the car at 10am the next day. They were great and the driver inspected the car before he took it. I had provided him with the CRD inspection report, so he knew it should be in perfect condition. 

For the KR4 I was a little worried, i'd have to call in all my favours from my Sydney friends or fly up at short notice if things went south, but nothing did and it's all history now. 

My advice would be if you can't be there, ensure you get a reputable inspection and go for the workshop storage option, the stress of buying a car privately unseen for big money was excruciating and could easily have seen me get ripped off.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...