Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone have any experience with transfer case or attessa system slippage?
Had car on dyno other day and wheel speeds between front and rear were changing/fluctuating up to 10%over the course of a run.
Atessa system had a complete flush and new fluids installed February last year and has had no issues since then, though in the last month or so the 4wd light has intermittently been coming on at startup then once warmed up tends to go back off.
Any ideas on how to adjust or what to look for would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479607-attessa-slippage/
Share on other sites

well a common problem these days is the nitrogen cannister loosing pressuring requiring the attessa pump to run continuously which may mean the actuator is not fully engaging.

anyway, I don't actually know how fixed the standard system was designed to be. SInce you were on a 4wd dyno, did they mention the concern because other cars they have run on it were noticably more consistent?

Other than actuation issues (you would expect the computer to want max front torque on a dyno because it is 100% wheel slip), they are basically an auto trans inside with wet clutches so it is possible there is a mechanical issue in the transfer case too like worn clutches.

I'd have to say that if my street car had 4wd varying by 10% in extreme conditions personally I wouldnt lose a moment's sleep. Different in a race car or if you genuinely need a perfect 4wd system for regular snow driving or something,

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Duncan said:

well a common problem these days is the nitrogen cannister loosing pressuring requiring the attessa pump to run continuously which may mean the actuator is not fully engaging.

anyway, I don't actually know how fixed the standard system was designed to be. SInce you were on a 4wd dyno, did they mention the concern because other cars they have run on it were noticably more consistent?

Other than actuation issues (you would expect the computer to want max front torque on a dyno because it is 100% wheel slip), they are basically an auto trans inside with wet clutches so it is possible there is a mechanical issue in the transfer case too like worn clutches.

I'd have to say that if my street car had 4wd varying by 10% in extreme conditions personally I wouldnt lose a moment's sleep. Different in a race car or if you genuinely need a perfect 4wd system for regular snow driving or something,

Ahhh OK thanks for the clarification, the attessa system has sort been one of those mysterious gadgets that I didn't wanna stuff with too much while it's working, the old "if it ain't broken"... 

I'm guessing that the amount of slip was noticeable enough to them to have said something, and they've done plenty of GTR and Subaru stuff on a regular basis to have made a note of it, hence asking the question if it is something that can be adjusted for future reference. 

On the road it has not been noticeable at all, as in it do not effect drivability in the wet or stuff like that and the 4wd light on dash doesn't flash etc, so not showing a code to diagnose and that is annoying 

Personally, I wouldn't be spending my hard earned on for a daily driver unless it was causing a noticeable problem...

Something not working fully could have a lot of causes, most of which come down to age/wearing out but not having failed yet.  Since the problem is somewhat intermittent it would be hard for a knowledgeable mechanic to track down, let alone someone without familiarity with the systems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...