Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all!

 

i am trying to remove the 4 19mm bolts that attach the Rear bearing to the rear hub. I have nfi how people do this with the hub attached to the car, all the guides just say move the driveshaft back a bit, but mine doesn’t move any further back and I can’t get a socket on the the bolts as the driveshaft interferes.

 

anyone got any ideas? Any help would be awesome!

845F7288-3339-482B-874E-C29D4B14C3BF.jpeg

0C663F85-D5A6-43DC-A71D-46C6F6DE3402.jpeg

FF2F655C-ED9F-4139-A36C-2E8AA1979B2F.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479650-rear-hubs/
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

WD40 + muscles. Long spanners & breaker bars. The usual.

 

Damn was hoping there was some magical trick! Will head over to Sydney tools tmrw and grab some long spanners. Have wd40’d tonight so should hopefully help!

 

thanks for the help :)

Edited by Tobz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479650-rear-hubs/#findComment-7923741
Share on other sites

If you are buying new tools to undo stubborn bolts, generally 1/2 sockets and long bars "breaker bars" are the cheapest way. Long spanners exist but you have to buy each size, and they wont always get at the bolt head as they have to be flat against it, with a socket you can use various length extensions to get at the bolt head

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479650-rear-hubs/#findComment-7923760
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

If you are buying new tools to undo stubborn bolts, generally 1/2 sockets and long bars "breaker bars" are the cheapest way. Long spanners exist but you have to buy each size, and they wont always get at the bolt head as they have to be flat against it, with a socket you can use various length extensions to get at the bolt head

God I’m an idiot sometimes.... socket fits on but couldn’t get my ratchet spanner on.... nfi why I didn’t just use my breaker bar!!!! (For the driveshaft bolts)

Edited by Tobz
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479650-rear-hubs/#findComment-7923776
Share on other sites

You can always put more torque on something with a large breaker bar than with a rattle gun. If the bar isn't long enough, extend it with something like a jack handle or iron pipe.

Also, give it a bit of heat with a blow torch first, and a shock or 2 as well (put socket over bolt, hit firmly with hammer a couple of times)

BTW, question we should have asked first....what are you trying to do? Change rear wheel bearings I guess? If so you should undo the control arms and ball joints and remove that big bolt in a vice on a bench. All the other stuff like reinstalling bearings and dust seals will be easier with the hub off the car. And it will have to come off for pressing the centres out anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479650-rear-hubs/#findComment-7923828
Share on other sites

I need to remove the hubs to add a 6mm spacer for the alpha omega brake kit, such a pain in the butt! Totally should have just got the WTAC edition that didnt need the spacer. 
 

Anyway learning a lot. Haven’t worked on a car before with this many stubborn parts! So at least I’m learning!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479650-rear-hubs/#findComment-7923830
Share on other sites

Ok! Finally got the stupid thing off!

even after using a 2m breaker bar, no dice. I went and bought a proper 6 point 27mm socket rather than the 12 point I had. Used some WD40 specialty penetrating oil. Used my impact wrench again, no issue.

 

pretty sure the 6point socket was the key as it had no flex in the socket at all, compared to the 12 point which just wasn’t up to mustard

Edited by Tobz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479650-rear-hubs/#findComment-7923838
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...