Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 26/30 is about ready to go in and I have been putting off torquing up the crank bolt to 400nm as recommended by Lewis engines on his website.

I started torquing it up in stages and the bolt reached it's yield at 350nm. After that it kept turning. Luckily I had a spare bolt and changed it out and this one torqued up to 400nm. That's Really F***en Tight! I used ARP lube on the first one and the second one went in dry but I assume there was still lube inside the crank. Any thoughts?

 

 

RB30 crank bolt.jpg

Edited by NZ-GTT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479855-rb30-balancer-bolt-rft/
Share on other sites

The RB26 is 446 - 544NM for a M18 x 1.5 bolt which is more than the recommended for a grade 10.9 of that size. the rb30 has a M16 bolt with a recommended torque setting of 142-152NM which is less than that of a M16 grade 8.8 bolt. Seems a bit loose and I want to push this engine beyond what the Nissan factory intended. Should I leave it since it has achieved that torque or replace it with ARP?

I was wondering why you were winding an RB30 bolt up to that torque and assumed that you were not using a stock bolt. Basically, exceeding the required (Nissan's spec) torque on that bolt by the margin that you have cannot be a very good idea. The torque is not just a function of the bolt but also what it is screwing into and the clamping surfaces that it has to load. It's no wonder that you f**ked the first one, and I'd be concerned that the second one is just simply too tight for the application. I'd get another one and do over again at a more moderate increase over the Nissan spec.

I was following the advise given here: http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/  at the bottom of the page. He makes no mention of using an aftermarket bolt.

I'll get another bolt and do over again thanks. What do you consider a moderate increase?

I've done more research. The torque specs given by Nissan for the RB26 match that of a grade 12.9 M18 x 1.5 bolt. Assuming that Nissan used the same grade on the RB25 & 30, the torque range for a M16 x 1.5 bolt is 300 - 380nm depending on the surface friction coefficient. I used ARP lube which changes the  coefficient even more. I've ordered an ARP bolt and will follow their recommendations. I've had a balancer come loose before and don't want a repeat.

Thanks for the advise.

Good choice to replace it.

i'll bet nissan properly engineered the rb30 bolt and torque specs, and that a properly torqued factory bolt has never come undone. The problem comes in when timing belts etc get changed long after they'v'e left the factory.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
On 29/02/2020 at 7:24 AM, NZ-GTT said:

I've done more research. The torque specs given by Nissan for the RB26 match that of a grade 12.9 M18 x 1.5 bolt. Assuming that Nissan used the same grade on the RB25 & 30, the torque range for a M16 x 1.5 bolt is 300 - 380nm depending on the surface friction coefficient. I used ARP lube which changes the  coefficient even more. I've ordered an ARP bolt and will follow their recommendations. I've had a balancer come loose before and don't want a repeat.

Thanks for the advise.

what arp bolt are u ordering the rb26 one ?? have u re tapped the 30 crank ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Congrats on the career change!  I did something similar at the start of the year too, left IT / corporate after nearly 2 decades. Soooo when's the motor coming out for the spark plug change?
    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
×
×
  • Create New...