Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 250t rx-four here 

I've trawled through the old forums and everyone basically says no "fun switch" can safely exist in this car and if you wanna make it 2wd you have to remove front driveshaft or something serious like that. 

It's been a couple years and I've got a bit of an idea, hear me out.

Ive had a search and a lot of people have reported intermittent faults with the 4wd light coming on and the car going into 2wd mode. I've had this fault too, only occasionally and it goes away if i restart the car. The error on the japanese infotainment screen roughly translates to "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd".

It seems for some people the issue is caused by a faulty relay in the front of the car under the air filter, and replacing it could fix the intermittent fault. I tested mine by removing that relay and the 4wd error light came on and the car was effectively 2wd. I think this relay controls ABS too so maybe the car loses its abs too. 

 

My question is, why don't we just hook up a dash mounted switch in line with the wires going to this relay to disable or enable it for a "fun switch" to safely make our cars 2wd at our will? 

 

I've read some of the people on this forum reckon something like this will harm the clutch for the 4wd but why would the infotainment screen say it's okay to keep driving with a similar fault?

A fun switch wouldn't be pressed every day anyway so surely it's not that bad? 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480122-4wd2wd-switch/
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Ottdurr said:

 250t rx-four here 

I've trawled through the old forums and everyone basically says no "fun switch" can safely exist in this car and if you wanna make it 2wd you have to remove front driveshaft or something serious like that. 

It's been a couple years and I've got a bit of an idea, hear me out.

Ive had a search and a lot of people have reported intermittent faults with the 4wd light coming on and the car going into 2wd mode. I've had this fault too, only occasionally and it goes away if i restart the car. The error on the japanese infotainment screen roughly translates to "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd".

It seems for some people the issue is caused by a faulty relay in the front of the car under the air filter, and replacing it could fix the intermittent fault. I tested mine by removing that relay and the 4wd error light came on and the car was effectively 2wd. I think this relay controls ABS too so maybe the car loses its abs too. 

 

My question is, why don't we just hook up a dash mounted switch in line with the wires going to this relay to disable or enable it for a "fun switch" to safely make our cars 2wd at our will? 

 

I've read some of the people on this forum reckon something like this will harm the clutch for the 4wd but why would the infotainment screen say it's okay to keep driving with a similar fault?

A fun switch wouldn't be pressed every day anyway so surely it's not that bad? 

 

[Sorry just realised you have an M35. Try and find a manual for it but this is the procedure for a WGCN34]

[Do not remove that relay]?. This is the approved procedure  outlined in the WGNC34  manual:

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).

 

In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket.

 

Disconnect it.

 

Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.

 

You need to do this every time you start the car.

 

To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.

 

And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere.

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480122-4wd2wd-switch/#findComment-7928306
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Do not remove that relay. This is the approved procedure  outlined in the manual:

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).

 

In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket.

 

Disconnect it.

 

Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.

 

You need to do this every time you start the car.

 

To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.

 

And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere.

 

 

 

Very interesting, thanks. 

Is it the same for m35 stageas though? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480122-4wd2wd-switch/#findComment-7928307
Share on other sites

But, given that it is still ATESSA, and the pre-load air bleed wire thingo was added at the R33 vintage (having not existed in the earlier R32 vintage ATESSA), it is reasonable to expect that they did not throw the pre-load back on the scrapheap and that you would still need to handle it.

It is also reasonable to expect that the m35 ATESSA computer would be smart enough to safely bleed off the pre-load pressure in the case of a fault. Thus, it would be "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd". Pulling the relay, if it triggers a fault that results in the above message, would probably be fine, if that's all it did. But if it also disables other systems on the car then it's probably not a great idea.

Beyond that, I don't actually know, I'm merely throwing up some thinking material.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480122-4wd2wd-switch/#findComment-7928314
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

But, given that it is still ATESSA, and the pre-load air bleed wire thingo was added at the R33 vintage (having not existed in the earlier R32 vintage ATESSA), it is reasonable to expect that they did not throw the pre-load back on the scrapheap and that you would still need to handle it.

It is also reasonable to expect that the m35 ATESSA computer would be smart enough to safely bleed off the pre-load pressure in the case of a fault. Thus, it would be "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd". Pulling the relay, if it triggers a fault that results in the above message, would probably be fine, if that's all it did. But if it also disables other systems on the car then it's probably not a great idea.

Beyond that, I don't actually know, I'm merely throwing up some thinking material.

Yeah it seems like it will work right? Keen to hear some more opinions. ABS being disabled won't be a huge safety problem seeing as the primary use for the "fun switch" would just be for whipping it round a gravel pit or something 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480122-4wd2wd-switch/#findComment-7928317
Share on other sites

We've been through this a few times now, but basically it's like this:

R32 is the only Attesa that has a single solenoid for pressure operation, and therefore no transfer case preload. Everything after R32 vintage Attesa has dual solenoids as far as I'm aware (definitely on GTRs).

One, the failsafe solenoid, keeps a small amount of pressure to the transfer therefore adding transfer case preload.

The other second solenoid, is for the normal varying torque split control. The failsafe solenoid is the reason in post R32 models you can't just pull the fuse and electrically turn it off like an r32. 

Kiwis method for 2wd activation in the post R32 cars depressurise the failsafe solenoid also, taking all preload off the transfer, therefore being totally ok for your transfer. If you don't do it this way, your transfer friction plates WILL be destroyed as they'll be dragging.

Your only way to get 2wd safely for you is how Kiwi mentioned to do it.

16 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

But, given that it is still ATESSA, and the pre-load air bleed wire thingo was added at the R33 vintage (having not existed in the earlier R32 vintage ATESSA), it is reasonable to expect that they did not throw the pre-load back on the scrapheap and that you would still need to handle it.

Also the Attesa motor activation connector exists in the R32, still the same method to bleed it as the 33/34. But as mentioned above they did not get rid of transfer case preload on later models.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480122-4wd2wd-switch/#findComment-7928351
Share on other sites

You either have 2 solenoids or one. Stageas are 1996 onwards, so pretty sure they won't be using the R32 single solenoid setup. It's easy to check on Nissan fast, so should be able to find out. Better yet is to check to setup under the right rear guard area. I really doubt the M35 will have only one solenoid, as they are very R33 based.

Do you have an active rear diff ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480122-4wd2wd-switch/#findComment-7928355
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...