Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, first time poster, could really use some help, 

Spent some time doing this setup on my mates 34, one major thing was to keep all the stock stuff functionable an to fit with the aftermarket parts, (merely wanted a clean engine bay) 

Its come time to start it, but won't start....

I didn't use the stock TB, I put on the 88mm the plenum came with an wired up a raceworks TPS sensor, 

I have spark, I have injector pulse, could the elimination of the stock throttle body stop it from starting? 

Thanks in advance 

IMG_20200512_080525_186.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480386-r34-25detneo-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Got fuel aswell. 

Doesn't have traction control, but yeah running stock ecu harness etc, just aftermarket bolt ons, 

Is nistune the only option? 

Not really fussed about an engine light at the moment just want to get it running 

Edited by -R34GT-
2 hours ago, -R34GT- said:

Doesn't have traction control, but yeah running stock ecu harness etc, just aftermarket bolt ons,

The standard ECU thinks that there should be a TCS/ABS ECU present. If there is not, there will be fault codes.

The TCS/ABS CU, if it is present, will be freaking out because you have lopped off its throttle motor and position sensor. There will also be ECU fault codes because of this.

Nistune is the only way to make a standard ECU work nicely under this level of abuse. The Neo ECU is fairly obsessive compulsive about a few things.

8 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

How big is that turbo? What ECU are you planning to run it with?

You say you have no ignition light...is  the starter turning the engine?

Engine turns over an everything performs as it should (minus the deleted TB) just doesn't start.

Its a gt35/40, now decided to go aftermarket ecu an loom, only made this post to see if anyone had a possible way to get the car to run an drive as it was with the factory ecu. 

45 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

The car should run, unless you have done something weird.not well but should run. You sure you wired that  tps correctly

Thats what I would have thaught, should atleast start an run, an yeah I double checked the tps wiring, have the voltage aswell, 

Only thing that isn't hooked up is the original TB

 

images.jpeg

23 minutes ago, -R34GT- said:

Thats what I would have thaught, should atleast start an run, an yeah I double checked the tps wiring, have the voltage aswell, 

Only thing that isn't hooked up is the original TB

 

images.jpeg

And that is not going to work anyway, that is a switch not a sensor

Try plugging in old tps and traction control throttle body and see what happens. Trying random piggy backs is not going to help you.

 

 

 

Also what's the status of the iac set up?  Did that also fall victim the plan of having a "clean engine bay"

I tried plugging the old throttle body back in before doing the ecu, an it didn't do anything, no noise no movements no starting,

The hks was only put in to try simply cause I was being told that removing the throttle body an its components will cause the ecu to freak out, think it was mentioned in an earlier post too, 

An the Iac is still there an functionable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...