Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there so my R34 currently has an atmos blow off valve, the last owner had sorta cut the flange off and welded a ring for his new one making it an effort to fix up and the plumb back hose was taken out completely and blocked.

I'm wanting to take it back to a factory plumb back style.

I had bought a R33 one thinking they were the same as an R34  as it was labeled as RB25 at the wreckers, but after getting home and putting them side to side I notice the neo one has a little pipe nipple for the boost sensor near the end and the R33 J pipe doesnt have any at all

So I bought a j pipe, BOV and the r33 plumb back hose

And looking at nissan parts drawing I see that a neo doesnt have a nipple on the plumb back hose (looks like it to me) where as the r33 does

I was wondering if there was a way to fix this issue.

My idea is bit weird as I was thinking of taking the line from the boost sensor to the r33 plumb back hose fitting with the nipple that's doing nothing atm. But was wondering if that will affect the reading as it so close to the start of air intake where as usually you would have it right at the end.

 

I know getting an r34 one would be ideal but there isnt any in my area atm been looking for weeks, the bov that I'm running currently does seem to make car run pretty lean as the engine is mainly stock and dont see anything else causing an issue with fuel consumption.

 

Will be adding picture soon hopefully tonight or early morning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480407-how-to-fit-a-r33-j-pipe-to-neo/
Share on other sites

Um. What about the traction control throttle, motor and position sensor? Stock ECU won't be amused without it. Making a connection for the boost sensor is a triviality by comparison. Drill and tap a hole and put in a nipple. But "mostly stock" and your description of the shit that has been done to the car are somewhat worrying.

Your photo came up as I was typing.

That is not a nipple. That is a piece of line that runs under the crossover pipe. You can see the other end of it on the front side, next to the mounting bracket. It's the passthrough for vacuum to the charcoal canister.

Edited by GTSBoy
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Um. What about the traction control throttle, motor and position sensor? Stock ECU won't be amused without it. Making a connection for the boost sensor is a triviality by comparison. Drill and tap a hole and put in a nipple. But "mostly stock" and your description of the shit that has been done to the car are somewhat worrying.

Your photo came up as I was typing.

That is not a nipple. That is a piece of line that runs under the crossover pipe. You can see the other end of it on the front side, next to the mounting bracket. It's the passthrough for vacuum to the charcoal canister.

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit

 

 

Sorry you also talk about traction control etc, how is that affected with only that j pipe, im literally only changing that pipe, all those parts arent connected to them  are they

20200518_202201.jpg

Edited by rahilp
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Um. What about the traction control throttle, motor and position sensor? Stock ECU won't be amused without it. Making a connection for the boost sensor is a triviality by comparison. Drill and tap a hole and put in a nipple. But "mostly stock" and your description of the shit that has been done to the car are somewhat worrying.

Your photo came up as I was typing.

That is not a nipple. That is a piece of line that runs under the crossover pipe. You can see the other end of it on the front side, next to the mounting bracket. It's the passthrough for vacuum to the charcoal canister.

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit

20200518_211354.jpg

20200518_211523.jpg

I think you miss the points I made.

1. The "nipple" you circled in the pick of the R34 crossover pipe is not a nipple. It is what I said it is.

2. The R34 ECU (or actually, the R34 ABS/TCS CU) requires to see a present and fit and healthy traction control throttle body, upstream of the main throttle. Without it, the ABS/TCS CU goes into a tizzy, and as the ECU is with the same union, when one goes out on strike, they all go out on strike. You will have fault codes in the ECU that will not go away because of the removed TCS equipment, unless you are using a Stagea motor/ECU.

30 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I think you miss the points I made.

1. The "nipple" you circled in the pick of the R34 crossover pipe is not a nipple. It is what I said it is.

2. The R34 ECU (or actually, the R34 ABS/TCS CU) requires to see a present and fit and healthy traction control throttle body, upstream of the main throttle. Without it, the ABS/TCS CU goes into a tizzy, and as the ECU is with the same union, when one goes out on strike, they all go out on strike. You will have fault codes in the ECU that will not go away because of the removed TCS equipment, unless you are using a Stagea motor/ECU.

1. That 1st picture i posted found yeah its not a nipple my mistake but the recent 2 pictures ive attached shows that the boost sensor hose going to the fitting its not a line running underneath its 100% has had a fitting tapped into the pipe. The 1st picture of the 2 recent ones show what i said it is. The fitting is in the dead bang centre of the pipe

2. Im sorry im probably missing the plot but how does changing the jpipe to another factory oem one and putting and oem bov and using the original factory lines affect those things, like the jpipe looks identical except for that fitting thats been tapped in 

From my understanding isnt the TCS the part circled in red which im not touching anyways, and that is staying on the throttle body and the blue circle is the j pipe the part i am replacingr34-gtt-rb25det-engine.png.0c239a06e8e529fd0a80f6e79eeeee92.png93934364_2577696365786273_5958927167948587008_o.thumb.jpg.181ca751bac8a2088cb120325b4fb271.jpg

Edited by rahilp

THE R33 CROSSOVER PIPE IS LITERALLY MUCH LONGER THAN THE R34 ONE BECAUSE THE R33 ONE DOES NOT HAVE THAT TCS THROTTLEBODY!

What you are putting onto the car CANNOT be an R33 crossover pipe.

Just look at some pictures of the engine bays!

And it literally does not matter that one of your crossover pipes has a nipple tapped into it and the other one doesn't. Just connect the boost sensor to where it is supposed to be connected.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...