Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 RB25DET Manual conversion tailshaft

Sheldon
 Share

Recommended Posts

Sheldon Apprentice

Sheldon

Posted
Posted

Hi, Im in the middle of converting my r32 automatic transmission to an rb25det manual gearbox, I know that the r33 yolk is supposed to be swapped on the r32 for the tailshaft and some people are saying you might have to get the tail shaft cut down too, Basically im just wondering if i got the r33 yolk and got it put on the r32 auto tailshaft if it world fit, The gear box and tranny seem to be the same size so i dont think id have to get it cut but thought id ask for some help. Also if anyone knows if i need to get a custom mounting bracket for the rb25det manual to fit properly or the r33 one will fit.

Thanks guys!

tail shaft.JPG

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

No, you cannot just take the yoke from the uni joint on one and replace the same piece on the other. It will be the wrong length (even if the uni joints are compatible, which I'd assume they are not).

You have to take the front half of the R33 tailshaft and the front half of the R32 tailshaft to be cut and shut together. You end up with a front half of tailshaft where the front end suits the gearbox and the back is R32.

In order to do this successfully, you need a measurement of how long the resulting front piece needs to be, because it's not the same as either the R32 or R33 piece. If you go to Hardy-Spicers almost anywhere in Australia they have done so many of these that they already know what length you need. Otherwise you will need to very carefully measure the required length from the back of the gearbox to the centre CV joint, allowing for movement of the spline in the gearbox.

59 minutes ago, Sheldon said:

Also if anyone knows if i need to get a custom mounting bracket for the rb25det manual to fit properly or the r33 one will fit.

Are you talking about the gearbox crossmember? There are 3 of these commonly found in these Nissans, with various gearboxes. Marked A, B and C. You will need one of them. I think, because you're starting with an auto, you might even get lucky and need the one you already have. But if it won't work, just go to the wreckers and buy and/or borrow the other 2, with a promise to return the one you don't end up needing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
×
×
  • Create New...