Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure about your exact needs, but I'd suggest not using one, and in particular not buying a second hand one....you don't know that a second handie didn't come off a motor with a spun bearing, and I can't think of any way to properly clean one out.

There are better options like rb30 remote oil filter mount or stagea (mount without the oil/water warmer) if you are OK to change the stock setup

That is an oil warmer, they are designed to bring up your oil temp quicker from cold.

Your coolant temp will reach operating temp well before you oil has reached its operating temperature.

As for cooling the oil, they really do nothing.

Alot of heavy plant, as well as car engines, use them, the quicker your oil temp comes up, the quicker you can run an engine at full load.

I had one from a Subaru Forester installed on my 86, the oil stabilised with the coolant temps much quicker.

This meant that once my oil temps got to operating temp, 90°c (ish) I could thrash the guts out of the engine.

It had no effect on my coolant temps either. It did help bring down my oil temps slightly after a good thrash though, once I got of the loud pedal anyway, but only slightly as the assembly would heat soak.

I know a few people who installed them with a thermostat oil to air cooler which worked really well at getting the oil up to temp, and keeping rhe oil from getting overcooked.

I see Uncle Duncan has replied whilst I have been typing.

He will know a world of "the good oil" IRT their use, reliability and efficiency IRT the RB though.

Point of note: I removed mine from my old RB, years ago, when I had it built and a oil to air cooler installed, my oil temp would drop down really low just driving around, so low that I'm pretty sure it never really got up to operating temp.

You really need to get your oil up to at least 90°c before you thrash it, otherwise the oil will not do its job efficiently at protecting your engine.

Anyways............do a skid..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...