Jump to content
SAU Community

Braided coolant lines for turbo

dyl33
 Share

Recommended Posts

dyl33 Mentor

dyl33

Posted
Posted

I want to make braided coolant lines for my turbo im installing and need to get the correct raceworks hose and fitting.

Im a little confused there's two types of fitting, ones called Teflon and the others called cutter fittings same with different series of braided hoses?

so i don't end up wasting money on stuff that's not going to work im hoping one of you knowledgeable legends can help me out.

This is what I've come up with for the coolant line fittings: 

An-6 hose (not sure what series hose i need)

Turbo coolant feed line:

2x metric male m14x1.5 to male flare an6

2x an-6 90 degree hose fitting

 

Turbo coolant return line:

1x metric male m14x1.5 to male flare an6

1x an-6 90 degree hose fitting

1x an6 straight hose fitting

1x an6 flare to 3/8 (an6) barb fitting

Hopefully that makes sense

Thanks.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480794-braided-coolant-lines-for-turbo/
Share on other sites
Unzipped Composites Rising Star

Unzipped Composites

Posted
Posted

Go with Teflon. Closer to a heat source, the Teflon will cope better.

 

The critical bit is that you get the appropriate fittings to suit the hose you use, ie. for Speedflow you would use 100 series hose with 100 series fittings, 200 series hose needs 200 series fittings. Teflon hose has a hard plastic inner, it's fittings use an olive that crimps between the fitting shell and the hose body to seal. The 'cutter' style fittings are for a rubber inner so the fittings cut into that rubber hose to seal. If you try to use 100 series fittings with 200 series hose then they won't seal and you'll be able to pull them off by hand, and if you try to use 200 series fittings with 100 series hose then it just won't fit.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Unzipped Composites Rising Star

Unzipped Composites

Posted
Posted

Can't really comment man, you'll need whatever fittings suit the way you are routing the lines. It all sounds like it will work. 

I think I used a banjo fitting into the block when I did mine, but I can't remember why. I imagine a straight or angled metric to AN adapter will work just fine too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...