Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was wondering if anyone here had any experience with JUN drop in cams? 
im looking at the 264/272 9.7mm lift drop ins because someone local is selling them for a decent price. How do they compare to their HKS 8.7mm lift counterparts? 

Edited by KN6_GTR
Typo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480889-jun-vs-hks-cams/
Share on other sites

HKS cams have always seemed completely bizarre to me when I looked into it. If you get their step 1 VCAM going to their smallest cam means the exhaust duration is higher than the intake. They also limit themselves to 8.7mm lift for seemingly no reason, you can go to 9.1mm lift on the cam without clearancing the head or using a smaller base circle cam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480889-jun-vs-hks-cams/#findComment-7937506
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, KN6_GTR said:

im looking at the 264/272 9.7mm lift drop ins

You sure they are drop in ? I have some Camtech RB26 cams for sale now. They are 272 at 9.7mm and they are not usable without relieving the head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480889-jun-vs-hks-cams/#findComment-7937538
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, BK said:

You sure they are drop in ? I have some Camtech RB26 cams for sale now. They are 272 at 9.7mm and they are not usable without relieving the head.

https://www.junauto.co.jp/products/camshaft/rb26.en.html

I'm guessing the base circle is 30mm instead of 32mm. I don't know that it's wise though, it's explicitly said that it isn't a bolt-on cam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480889-jun-vs-hks-cams/#findComment-7937539
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, BK said:

You sure they are drop in ? I have some Camtech RB26 cams for sale now. They are 272 at 9.7mm and they are not usable without relieving the head.

Their website says they are. I was wondering the same thing. I was under the impression that anything above 9.5 needed machining 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480889-jun-vs-hks-cams/#findComment-7937553
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

I don't know that it's wise though, it's explicitly said that it isn't a bolt-on cam.

What isn't wise ? Using a non drop in camshaft ? Clearancing the head is not such a big deal.

Their cams are stupid anyway having so many base circle variations - completely unnecessary, causing custom lifter or retainer thickness changes. No mention of ramp rate duration at 50 thou or lobe separation angles either, so their specs are a bit ambiguous.

1 hour ago, KN6_GTR said:

Their website says they are. I was wondering the same thing. I was under the impression that anything above 9.5 needed machining 

Their website doesn't list them in the "bolt in" option, but also doesn't mention anything special in the notes either about anything. The Camtech 260deg 9.5mm as big of lift I know of that is a confirmed bolt in, no machining. That said, I reckon even some heads would need slight relieving with them, as the RB26 head is not exactly cast to 0.1mm sort of tolerances.

Probably should just stick to Kelfords or Camtech, as you know exactly what you're getting and their local.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480889-jun-vs-hks-cams/#findComment-7937559
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...