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Good morning everybody. I’ve searched on this and can’t find anything on my specific problem. So I’m having a slight “annoyance” with my drivers door lock. The driver door will not lock/unlock by the switch (but the passenger door works just fine). Manually locking the door via the key or inside the car will lock the door (and the passenger side door). Now, the really annoying part is from the time I start the car to the time I shut it down, every 3 or 4 seconds the driver door lock attempts to actuate. This doesn’t always happen, but happens enough to drive me crazy when driving with the windows up. I should add that the speed sensitive auto locks have never worked. I was thinking of snipping the green wire at the brain to disable the feature altogether, hoping this would remedy my problem, but I wanted to find some more information before I decided to do that. Any thoughts? Car is a 95 GTS25T S1 without keyless entry or any type of alarm. Thanks!

Hmmmmm . . . . check the drivers side door window control unit.

Some one may have replaced it with a later model one out of a series 2 and fiddled with the electrical wiring to get it to work.

From memory a Series 1 has a 9 pin plug and a Series 2 a 11 pin plug . . . or was it vice versa ? ? ( oh my Oldtimers disease is at maximum at the moment ! )

I'm sure some one on here can confirm that.

 

1 hour ago, PLYNX said:

Hmmmmm . . . . check the drivers side door window control unit

Thats actually the Power window amplifier part number 28515-15U00 the small smd relays fail inside. Very common. All three  of my family S1 R33's have failed with various problems but same unit. New they are $270 plus freight.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
spelling

So could that have something to do with a very “loose” driver window switch? You even look at the switch and the window goes down. Also, the driver window works most of the time, but when I’m putting up both windows at the same time, the driver door sometimes waits a few seconds before working  

Also, what is the purpose of this amplifier, exactly? 

Edited by LiteraCola

"Loose drivers switch" part of the button has broken away on the inside button itself.

This holds a small white plastic spring loaded pin.

Pop the button of carefully, after taking the unit out, and look for the broken plastic bits, clean out the lubrication grease with ethanol and super glue ( I believe it called crazy glue in the US ) back together.

Bit of a fiddly job and you may have to put a small piece of supporting plastic in to stop it breaking off again . . . . or you can buy a whole new unit for a gozillion dollars !

1 hour ago, LiteraCola said:

what is the purpose of this amplifier, exactly?

The signal itself from the switch is low voltage/current not sure which. the signal operates the relays in the amplifier which switches the main supply to the door locks and window motors

  • 2 weeks later...

Alright, so during my door speaker swap, I decided to try and tinker with this loose window switch. I removed the switch panel, popped off the window switch and a small piece of plastic fell out. I cleaned up all the grease with brake cleaner (on a cotton swab) and used some of the DevCon Plastic Welder stuff I “borrowed” from work a hundred years ago. I let it dry over night and tried to slide the pin back in. It was pretty tight so I tried to sand down some of the glue. That didn’t work, so I sanded the plastic pin just a smidge. Lubed it up and slid it in (giggity). All is well; my switch isn’t loose anymore, and I don’t hear the constant “clunk clunk” inside the door while driving. Two birds with one stone? 
 

My drivers door lock switch still doesn’t work, but that’ll move down the priority list since there’s a nifty manual lock bottom less than a foot away ??‍♂️

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