Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i want to have a turbo skyline but currently have bodykit etc on myne so don't want to sell. what are the main differences besides engine wise (brakes, etc) from a turbo to a n/a r33 skyline. also would it be more effective to do a complete engine swap for a rb25det and does anyone know where's the best place to grap one and can they trade the old one in? cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48117-rb25de-change-to-rb25det/
Share on other sites

This can be an expensive exercise (I just did it but at mate's rates). Gearbox is different, tailshaft, brakes, wiring loom. Many will advise against it as the cost will be the same as buying a GTST (take the body kit off of the n/a and put it on the GTST). I did it as the standard GTST would not have met my requirements. I would have changed a lot of things anyway (turbo, ecu, intercooler). I didn't put a turbo on the rb25de as I believe it wasn't strong enough so I sourced a rb25det. This probably doesn't answer your questions but might give you something to think about.

Being in the same situation, here's how I justified buying a front cut and putting it in:

1) Even though it may be cheaper to buy the turbo version, you don't know the history of the car, i.e has it been crashed, how good is the engine etc. It may be cheaper to do an engine transplant in your current car in the end;

2) Insurance is generally cheaper for an N/A car with a turbo;

3) Having to stuff around finding a car that you like, is in good condition, and then eventually selling yours. Add to that stamp duty etc. May be easier just to find a front cut.

I will be doing a swap in my R34 very soon, and have no regrets about deciding to do so.

My two cents.

a front cut is bascially the front part of the car upto the windscreen. say in japan some dude writes off an r33 gtst, the rear end is absolutely mashed, front is fine. get a big cutter thing chop car in half from windscreen to the front and ship it over to aus. you pay say $4000 for the front cut and you get engine, wheels, brakes, gearbox, full panels, lights etc providing they are ok and not busted etc and you can pick what parts u want and sell the leftovers if you like

this way you get the turbo model parts of thingsl like full engine, ecu, intercooler, front brakes, geatrbox, engine mounts etc.. as apposed to simply bolting the turbo charger onto a n/a engine, you swap all parts over

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
    • Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.
    • Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear...   Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!
    • ECUMaster is an Australian company from memory, been around a while, and seem to actually play really well on more unique engine setups. Seems to be more of them being used in the states, and they seem to support more cylinders than most others.   My opinion on stock ECU/Nistune with he AFM, is you can tune around the issue of stalling. It's still a bit of a band-aid, and not the most perfect smoothest setup, but it can make it drive able and not an absolute PITA. But you're still compromising. A vent to atmosphere BOV has the same issue as no BOV with regards to the AFM. Both make the ECU think more air is entering the engine than there really is. And I can't find any hard science/decent evidence that supports the claims all the "you MUST run a BOV of some sort of you'll blow the turbo up". About the only one some people can give of why is "lag between gear shifts", and that is only an issue when your boost source for the waste gate is pre throttle body. I ran my boost source for the TD07S off the inlet manifold. Didn't have weird boost spiking issues, didn't have boost control issues, and on a gear shift the wastegate slammed shut, which meant all exhaust gases would be keeping it going round and round and not waiting for the wastegate to shut again when I stepped off the clutch and back on the loud pedal. It came back on boost in the next gear pretty much instantly.   ECU / tune / BOV choice I think really comes down to a lot more factors than just what you've stated. And personally, especially for daily driving, recirc setup for the BOV, or no BOV. I dislike the really loud BOV when everyone is taking off from the lights etc.
×
×
  • Create New...