Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My 33 GTR is making a weird rattling noise after driving it for a while. It tends to go away after you shut the car off and start it back up again, it sounds like something is loose and rattling around somewhere on the passenger side under the intake piping for the turbos. It doesn't get louder the more you rev the car, if anything it goes away. I'm going to drain the oil here shortly and have a look for any metal shavings.

Turbos are stock to my knowledge, they were going to get changed out this winter as well as the basic oil restrictor mods, etc..I just got the car with intention of doing a restoration over the next few years.

What are your thoughts? Is this going to need a rebuild right away?

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481330-rb26-rattle-spun-bearing/
Share on other sites

Don't often get to say this about an rb, but that is definitely not a spun bearing.

It will be some thin gauge steel rattling against something else. Maybe a loose turbo heat shield, the air/water lines or some other random bracket not attached properly. Not a big deal but you should get it sorted so whatever isn't meant to be rattling doesn't break.

BTW I'm sure you're concerned....but 2 hours in the middle of the night was pretty early to bump the question!

Sorry about that, I was definitely nervous and anxious; I tend to get that way when something could be horrible. I figured it wasn't a bearing either because it doesn't get louder or worse the more I rev it. On cold start it doesn't happen (from what I can hear), i'm going to have a deep dive next weekend and see if I can find the issue.

Thanks for the reply Duncan!! I really appreciate it.

Yeah apart from the quite different tone, rod big end bearings (most common failure) are noisier when cold (thicker oil, higher clearances) and noiser when you rev it (rod moves faster, failed bearing lets it move more), and the speed of the knock increases with revs too. It is quite a distinctive "gnomes with hammers inside your engine" noise

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...