Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My 33 GTR is making a weird rattling noise after driving it for a while. It tends to go away after you shut the car off and start it back up again, it sounds like something is loose and rattling around somewhere on the passenger side under the intake piping for the turbos. It doesn't get louder the more you rev the car, if anything it goes away. I'm going to drain the oil here shortly and have a look for any metal shavings.

Turbos are stock to my knowledge, they were going to get changed out this winter as well as the basic oil restrictor mods, etc..I just got the car with intention of doing a restoration over the next few years.

What are your thoughts? Is this going to need a rebuild right away?

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481330-rb26-rattle-spun-bearing/
Share on other sites

Don't often get to say this about an rb, but that is definitely not a spun bearing.

It will be some thin gauge steel rattling against something else. Maybe a loose turbo heat shield, the air/water lines or some other random bracket not attached properly. Not a big deal but you should get it sorted so whatever isn't meant to be rattling doesn't break.

BTW I'm sure you're concerned....but 2 hours in the middle of the night was pretty early to bump the question!

Sorry about that, I was definitely nervous and anxious; I tend to get that way when something could be horrible. I figured it wasn't a bearing either because it doesn't get louder or worse the more I rev it. On cold start it doesn't happen (from what I can hear), i'm going to have a deep dive next weekend and see if I can find the issue.

Thanks for the reply Duncan!! I really appreciate it.

Yeah apart from the quite different tone, rod big end bearings (most common failure) are noisier when cold (thicker oil, higher clearances) and noiser when you rev it (rod moves faster, failed bearing lets it move more), and the speed of the knock increases with revs too. It is quite a distinctive "gnomes with hammers inside your engine" noise

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
    • Hey all. I’m looking on replacing my speed sensor on my R33 GTR. Will the center differential need to be drained, and if so, the center diff uses ATF fluid D? I found information on the transmission, front diff and rear diff. Can’t find a for sure answer for the center diff. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...