Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have some stuff I'd like to clear, almost all of it is 2nd hand, some are my personal parts that were removed off my racecar and I can vouch for them, others are from an ex running motor that I bought which broke a ring land but would be very very acceptable. I thought I would post here and give all you guys 1st chance. Happy to negotiate prices, but please don't be stupid. PayPal would be my personal way of payment, but direct deposit would also be acceptable. I am more than happy to post anywhere and I mean anywhere, but YOU pay the freight and after saying that I am more than happy to get you a posted price.

1/ My factory sump, now I know its undented, sump plug thread is perfect and the mating surface is great. It dirty but so would you be if you were in storage for years.  $100

2/ Front Timing Case Cover set, Not mine, but looks in great condition $ 60

3/ Series 1 standard fuel rail with standard injectors and standard regulator, not mine but came off the used engine I bought, it's dirty but hey, the engine was running so they should be good  $80

4/ My Boot lid and Fuel Cable, what you see is what you get, nothing wrong with it, I just deleted it and open the fuel flap from within the boot area $30

5/ New Greddy Intercooler windscreen washer replacement bottle, comes with bottle, mounting bracket, pump rubbers and alloy delete plug for the rear washer. Has some little marks on it from storage, but brand spanking new $100

6/ Steering Column Shrouds, not mine, but both halves, they have some scratches, but it is what it is. $30

7/ My Factory Series 2 ECU with mounting brackets, now this girl is interesting as my car had no speed limiter, not sure if it was modded at factory, but it had never been opened, nor the wiring harness ever touched, so you make your own assumptions. I had since removed the ecu's covers to mount longer screws to mount it elsewhere $250

8/ My Series 2 Heater Core, No leaks ever, some slightly bent fins but worked absolutely perfectly $60

9/ New Oil Cooler mounting sandwich,, never used. goes between filter and housing $50

20201028_130010[7853].jpg

20201028_130026.jpg

20201028_130503[7847].jpg

20201030_120305.jpg

20201030_120350.jpg

20201030_120503.jpg

20201030_120557.jpg

20201030_120602.jpg

20201030_120806.jpg

20201030_121211.jpg

20201030_121149.jpg

20201030_120721.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481401-r33-gts-t-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Hi Neil - curious about the Greddy washer bottle. What’s the purpose? Just to allow deleting or rear washer / ditch the factory bottle or does it help when setting up an intercooler water sprayer?

Cheers

8 hours ago, Birds said:

Hi Neil - curious about the Greddy washer bottle. What’s the purpose? Just to allow deleting or rear washer / ditch the factory bottle or does it help when setting up an intercooler water sprayer?

Cheers

Hey girla, It's part of the intercooler kit and apparently much sort after. Mainly it's used to remove the factory washer bottle out of the way for the Intercooler kit to fit properly. Yea you can remove the rear washer if you actually have one using the blanking plug. Install it in the boot or where ever using the flat mounting bracket, swap the hoses and wiring. No its way to small for an effective water sprayer.

Hope that helps.

 

Cheers Neil  

Thanks Neil. Makes sense, making clearance for the intercooler. I run a return flow so the benefit would probably be strictly aesthetic. Are they meant to bolt in place of the factory one using the bracket or require proper install?

You can mount it anywhere you have a reasonable flat surface, Mines mounted to the left hand rear inner 1/4 panel without the bracket but the bracket allows multiple mounting areas. The bottle itself has 2 of it's own mounting holes.

Hope that helps

Neil.

20201103_211634.jpg

  • Thanks 1

I have more stuff I'd like to clear

1/ Not mine, Upper intake manifold, Series 1, dirty as, but seems in good condition $50

2/ Not Mine, Lower intake manifold grubby condition and in need of work, all 3 water connectors need replacing $50

3/ Assorted water and fuel pipes, pick one, pick all, pick anyone one, your call, all in good condition your call on price

4/ Not mine R34 GTT pistons and rods, Standard size your call on price

5/ My Speedo, swapped out years ago $100

6/ My top half inlet manifold, clean as a babies bum, great condition $80

7/ My cross over pipe $50

20201102_163636.jpg

20201102_163646.jpg

20201102_163706.jpg

20201102_163740.jpg

20201103_153425.jpg

20201103_153431.jpg

20201103_153439.jpg

20201103_153448.jpg

20201103_153458.jpg

20201103_154620.jpg

20201103_154900.jpg

20201103_154909.jpg

20201103_154913.jpg

20201103_155144.jpg

20201103_155200.jpg

20201103_155208.jpg

20201103_155621.jpg

20201103_155628.jpg

20201103_155640.jpg

20201103_155700.jpg

20201103_155708.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...