Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing the rigid brake lines in a R33

HCD Velcra

By HCD Velcra,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

HCD Velcra Enthusiast

HCD Velcra

Posted
Posted (edited)

I always wondered what people will do or did already, if they had or have to replace the brake lines. Ive never seen such as an oem part somewhere and I also do not know what lines / material you could use instead of the genuine ones?

One or two of my lines are a bit corroded, and I start to ask myself, hows it gonna be in the future. 

So please guys, share some light :) 

 

Google said, I should use "rigid" to describe the stiff lines, not the flexible brake lines / hoses at the wheels themself 

Edited by HCD Velcra
  • HCD Velcra changed the title to Replacing the rigid brake lines in a R33
hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

"Hard lines" - any brake place should be able to make up what you need. Get the right size steel line, bend to make the same contours, put on the end fittings then double flare the tube. 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

You can either source parts from a wreck, or if necessary have them made up. Making hard lines does require specialist tools and knowledge but not rocket science

They shouldn't really be rusting unless you car has spent some time underwater at some stage, or on very salty roads. Do you have other rust underneath?

r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted

I've had the rear lines replaced through a local shop. East Coast Customs in brissy.

Definitely recommend taking care of that. I didn't notice until it was too late, 1/2 way into a sedate hill drive and cradled it home with very limited brakes😆.

From memory it was around the $400ish range i think.

They had it done and finished same day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Wrinkle black will be a thing for both
    • shubby0901
      Living With An R33 Gtst

      By shubby0901 · Posted

      As I wait for parts to be delivered, I have managed to procure via a contact a R32 Nistune ECU......for now I just want to monitor what the car is doing but eventually.......who knows where we go 😂
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
×
×
  • Create New...