Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My partner's 2004 350gt skyline won't start we just started it to move it into the shed then we went to turn it on again and now it won't start we have lights coming on and everything but won't crank all it does is buzz 

We have tried the starter motor it's not that 

Check fusses not that 

And we have checked the battery not that 

And also check fuel pump it's not that 

This has just happend out of no where it hasn't done this before and it's our daily 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481656-my-partners-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites

It does sound like a battery, when you attempt to crank, do the lights on the dash stay on at full brightness? or do they go very dull/off?

If they stay on full, it points more toward the starter motor, if they go very dull, then look more toward the battery.

How have you eliminated the above items?  replaced them?  tested them?

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, sonicii said:

it points more toward the starter motor

Whoa back up son, the starter motor is actuated by a relay have you checked the relay? Have you applied power directly to the starter motor? Does it rotate? Does the solenoid actuate ? Does the relay click, or is that your Buzzing sound. Are you sure the battery is ok, you must load test batteries a simple voltage measurement is not good enough.

  • Like 1
On 12/16/2020 at 10:33 PM, Rusty Nuts said:

Whoa back up son, the starter motor is actuated by a relay have you checked the relay?

For sure, when I say 'point toward the starter motor', I don't mean it will be the starter motor, but including all the components associated with it, including relays, wiring, grounding, etc.

  • Like 1

FWIW my M35 cranks hard even when it doesn't have enough electric power to start. First thing i'd do it try a jump start after double checking battery connections and charge. IIRC the battery should be 12.6 volts when fully charged.

just making sure you have checked the connections to the starter that the nut or clip may be loose? wiring maybe to the plugs to the starter. and yeah of course make sure you have voltage or try boosting it with another vehicle. kick the bitch a little bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...