Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT Idle / Deceleration Problem

GoHashiriya
 Share

Recommended Posts

MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, GoHashiriya said:

That's alright. I have got a copy already, albeit only the R34 one which presumably doesnt cover my 32 trans. Thanks for the reminder though as it did slip my mind.  

good on yeah mate. glad to help when i can hows things going with the car.

GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

good on yeah mate. glad to help when i can hows things going with the car.

Honestly, It's gonna take me about a month to crack on with this job. I've gotta move house next month which will hold me back. I'm going to try and do coilovers, hicas lock and arms next weekend, plus get the wheels mounted and aligned. It's the wrong order I know, but I don't wanna have the car in an immovable state before moving.

I appreciate everyone's input so far and will be sure to update this when I make some progress.

MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
Posted

yeah forsure bro dont rush it. i rushed my build spent way to much creates stress and takes the fun out of it. go at your own pace with fixing it and just enjoy. more to life than cars as much as we do love them.

  • Like 1
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Over the weekend I had a glance under the car and found the neutral switch - located just forward of the shifter - isn't plugged into anything.

I've tried searching but have found limited results indicating the colours or location of the wires I need to plug this into. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

The best description of the wiring I've found is this:

"When you (have) disconnected the loom from the gearbox, you should have disconnected 4 plugs. The green and black plugs on the PNP switch, the plug for the speedometer which is grey with an orange and a black wire, and a second speedometer plug, which is brown. I’ll start with the PNP plugs.

You only need the black plug. On the black plug, there are 3 wires that you need. The red wire for the reverse switch, this also needs a earth wire that you can splice from the earth (black wire) that goes into the speedometer sensor. The other two wires that you need are the brown with yellow stripe and green with white stripe. These are for the neutral switch."

The thread is regarding an R34 auto-manual swap. Do these wire colours apply across the board for the 34?

Apologies for the poor quality pic, it was relatively tight under the car. 

508A362B-C048-4E85-8BFE-2CA611D8A026.jpg.58156fcd0cdb67f410d1cd41c57d65ac.jpg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

There's another switch on the side of the gearbag, looks like the reverse switch. THAT is the neutral switch. What you have pointed to as the neutral switch is just the loom connector.

But more importantly, that gearbag doesn't look like an RB25DET box. Looks like RB20DET. That lettering cast in in behind the reverse switch says RP71, right?

Compare with below image of RB20 box

https://www.jdmenginesimport.com/images/EnginePics/Full/339_4_IMG_4243.jpg

  • Like 1
GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
  • Author
Posted
50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There's another switch on the side of the gearbag, looks like the reverse switch. THAT is the neutral switch. What you have pointed to as the neutral switch is just the loom connector.

But more importantly, that gearbag doesn't look like an RB25DET box. Looks like RB20DET. That lettering cast in in behind the reverse switch says RP71, right?

Compare with below image of RB20 box

 

You're correct, it's an RB20 box - a questionable choice for a swap into an ER34. I know, I know - a budget for a suitable transmission is in the works.

The switch in question for me is the one just forward of the shifter:image.png.b09fd2dd3b4fcaffcedea62251ab707b.png 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...