Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, 

I have a full stock r34 gtr however the brakes locked.

Brakes are fine (pedal feels good), I had to go over 90km h under rain to make it locked.

no brake leakage and brake fluid level is ok.

I'm using used (good conditions) winter tyres.

abs goes on and off after ignition is switch on.

I had a fault code 72 that I clear and it didnt get back.This fault code was relating to TPS (MFD show correctly the TP) I also checked the TPS signal on the abs connector and voltage is within spec (0.5 - 4v)

I checked the wheel sensors from the connector of the abs module I got values (using a cheap chinese ohmeter) between -0.5k and +8k (depends at which speed I turn the wheel ) with average/rest at 1.2k 

during the wheel sensors signal measurements; I moved/shake the wheel sensors wires/connectors to make sure there is no short or open in the loom/connector/sensor.

I'm out of idea ? can it be a relay ? fuses ?

best regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481886-r34-gtr-abs-not-working/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for your answer however now I'm out of idea...

 

I have performed the following tests :

- continuity test between the wiring of the abs pump and the abs ECU

- ring abs sensor are in good condition and have the correct number of teeth (46)

- all fuses are ok

- tyres are globally in same condition; is within +/- 10mm

 

- I have electrically disconnected the abs pump to test it :

* relay are ok (80 ohms and I can "hear" them when I powered them)

* solenoid valves seems ok (4 ohms or 8 ohms and consummes 1.5A or 3A; it will depends if it's an inlet or outlet)

* the abs motor is working

 

My questions :

- I have a front limited diff slip, is it possible that's making some trouble with the ABS ?

- should I open the abs pump to check the valves ?

- should I go for new tyres ?

- where can I found the software to use with nissan consult to connect to the abs ECU (so that I could log some infos)

 

Any other idea maybe ?

 

Thanks for your time

so I have bleed the entire system and the wheels are still locking

I have dixcel m or z type brake pads (I dont know if that could be an issue somehow )

I have order a consult 1 we will see
if I am still getting into trouble I will change the master brake cylinder, abs pump and abs control unit ...

best regards

I finally got a (german) consult

I was able to do the active test with success (meaning the abs pump should be ok)

the wheel data seems to be ok too, they are between +/-1kmh between each other and they are matching the real speed.

I was not able to do the self diagnostic with the consult; I might do something wrong in the process I guess (see picture)

IMG-20210226-WA0009.jpeg

 

IMG-20210226-WA0011.jpeg

20210226_123638.jpg

Edited by bigboss59400

I'm suspecting some solenoids being blocked as my wheels are still locking (my feeling is it seems to be the front only ) so I will dissasemble the pump
I have made a test this morning (7am at 1 degre; the road was dry but we some humidity on it; sorry I don't get the english word for it )

you can clearly see from the picture that my abs control seems to react correctly !
 

if the solenoids valve are in good cobdition, I will put everything back to stock :

  • no winter tyres
  • OEM pads
  • new flexible hoses (avionic )
  • new brake master


thanks

20210227_101142.jpg

20210227_101127.jpg

20210227_100701.jpg

20210227_100653.jpg

20210227_100619.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

So to conclude,

My assumption was false, based on the curves I provided we can see that the wheels has locked but the ABS release some pressure to unlock them...

Replacing the winter tyres by some regular tyres give a much better feeling too (but I don't think it was necessary)

So at the end, a bleed of the system + some cleaning on the calipers (with a lot of WD40) seems to have done the trick....yes it was such simple

French test has been passed with success this time

I can finally drive legally in a few weeks hopefully

THanks for having a look into my problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...