Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Im looking to convert my r34 gtt to 4WD. Someone told me I can just take Stagea c34 drivetrain to do 4WD conversion

but I’m not sure what parts are included in “drivetrain” so I know I’m gonna need Stagea gearbox, front tailshift, drive shift, rear diff, sump with diff, is there anything else?

can those parts go straight on to gtt? And do I also need Stagea 4WD ECU to run it?
 

and also looking for someone want to convert your Stagea c34 to rear wheel drive, we can just swap the parts if it works, location in Brisbane 

cheers

Edited by [email protected]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482135-r34-gtt-4wd-conversion/
Share on other sites

As Duncan said, the front frame rails are different. The RWD Skylines have a similar front subframe and bracing as a Silvia, where the AWD Skylines/Stageas/Laurels have front frame rails that are notched to allow for CV axles to pass under them and move up and down. The front frame rails also have different mounting points to use a much larger front subframe that houses true wishbone lower control arms. This subframe attaches in 4 places instead of 2 and uses 8 bolts in total. The floor under the driver's left foot is relieved for the transfer case and front driveshaft, as well.

So let's say you bought all of the suspension/drivetrain stuff:

front subframe

front lower control arms

front knuckles and uprights

front shocks

front CV axles

front sway bar

oil pan w/ front differential to match the rear ratios

front driveshaft

transmission w/ transfer case

rear driveshaft

 

So now you have to control the transfer case. The ATTESA system in these uses a hydraulic pump located under the boot on the driver's side and sends variable amounts of hydraulic pressure to the transfer case to apply pressure to plates that send power to the front driveshaft. There is quite a bit of plumbing involved, and even more wiring as this integrates with ABS/TCS.

All this to say that it's fairly unrealistic. If you buy all the parts, you still have to cut and modify the floor section where it meets the tunnel, and you have to notch and reinforce the front frame rails to accept the very different front subframe. It's been done before, but it's just not practical. Especially since these parts aren't just being tripped over in the corner at multiple importers like they used to be.

Do what I did. I wanted an AWD R34, but couldn't afford a GTR. So I bought an ENR34.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...