Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Doing a R34 Getrag conversion in my Cefiro.

 

Looking at two clutch options the above ATS twin carbon silent and a Nismo Coppermix twin.

Currently have the push version of the Nismo coppermix(680ps) and found it started to slip around 700hp at wheels.

I also find it is a bit heavy on the foot(i've had a leg operation and due another). The pull version is rated to 780ps

 

On paper the ATS silent carbon twin ticks all the box's.

900ps rating

using factory dual mass

silent operation.

light pedal.

 

I read through the threads though on the carbon clutches and no shortage of stories of people pulling them out.

They are all from 2006 to 2014 though.

 

This is a new(ish) clutch by ATS , wondering if anyone has used ? is it any better ? does it suit the street as claimed ?

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482415-ats-carbon-silent-twin-anyone-used/
Share on other sites

I've spoken to a couple already (the better known and recommended in aus) and found them to not very helpful thus far.

 I have a direct clutch in my race car and whilst its great in that, it is so far from  what I want for my street car its not funny.

 

I am not aware of any Aus that make a silent clutch ?

Nismo coppermix clutches are not even in the same ballpark as any ATS carbon clutch. The silent carbon ATS clutch is really just retaining the dual mass flywheel as a means of trying to tame the excessive Getrag rollover gear noise which is enhanced with a solid flywheel. They are a pretty clunky sounding box like a Tremec T56 or TR6060, which is not helped by the fact they use an ATF fluid because of the synchro material.

It'll be a good clutch as the ATS carbons are the shit - the carbon plates are all the same. ACS in Adelaide used to stock ATS at good prices. If not they have their own twin carbon which might be worth a look behind a Getrag.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, BK said:

Nismo coppermix clutches are not even in the same ballpark as any ATS carbon clutch. The silent carbon ATS clutch is really just retaining the dual mass flywheel as a means of trying to tame the excessive Getrag rollover gear noise which is enhanced with a solid flywheel. They are a pretty clunky sounding box like a Tremec T56 or TR6060, which is not helped by the fact they use an ATF fluid because of the synchro material.

It'll be a good clutch as the ATS carbons are the shit - the carbon plates are all the same. ACS in Adelaide used to stock ATS at good prices. If not they have their own twin carbon which might be worth a look behind a Getrag.

Are the ATS carbon clutches really all that good for street use? I was under the impression that the lack of springs in the clutch means it's much easier to cause shock loading of the drivetrain unless you take care to prevent it in how you drive.

I rang ACS, they no longer do carbon clutches, only something called a carbon button. 

Everything they sell rattles though.  Also have to do pull to push conversion. 

 

Hunting down a dual mass flywheel to go with ATS silent carbon twin is next challenge. 

 

 

18 minutes ago, Butters said:

I rang ACS, they no longer do carbon clutches, only something called a carbon button. 

Everything they sell rattles though.  Also have to do pull to push conversion. 

 

Hunting down a dual mass flywheel to go with ATS silent carbon twin is next challenge. 

 

 

I love ATS, but I must say I don't actually believe the bnr34 silent ATS twin is a very good deal though, at $3700AUD before tax, import duty or shipping from RHD Japan and you have to add a 34 dual mass flywheel on top of that too. They really are starting to price themselves out of the market.

The BNR34 ATS silent clutch also requires a pull to push conversion as per Note 3.

http://www.ppi-ats.com/Silent_clutch.html

https://www.rhdjapan.com/ats-across-silent-carbon-twin-clutch-kit-spec-2-bnr34.html

  • 1 year later...

Well, I went the nismo twin clutch.  The clutch pedal in = silent as, drives amazing, foot feel is great and it holds power no problem   

.... but ...

in neutral with pedal out the box is pretty damn loud .. so loud I am googling ATS silent clutch again and finding my own thread :)

On 8/15/2022 at 2:38 PM, Ben C34 said:

That's not the clutch making the noise, it is locked up so no rattles possible, unless there is some freaky stuff happening

Yeah....but..... you have to account for the different (and obviously sometimes wrong) way that people use the terms "in" and "out" to describe clutch engagement and disengagement.

If you read

On 8/14/2022 at 9:15 PM, Butters said:

The clutch pedal in = silent as, drives amazing

As being the clutch pedal up/out (instead of Butters' "in"), then it makes sense.

And the use of "out" in the 2nd paragraph interpreted as "disengaged" would then also make sense.

It's all just a matter of whether you think that "pedal in" means "pedal pushed in" which means "clutch disengaged", or if you think "pedal in" means "pedal up" which then makes the "in" mean "engaged". Either of which can be argued for, but only one of them is going to be "obvious" to each person.

  • Like 1

Well to be be clear my saying - "clutch pedal in" means that the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor and the clutch is disengaged(no drive transmitted) at the gearbox.

So the noise on the clutch pedal out, or clutch engaged is the gearbox which is apparently normal with the getrag once you take the dual mass flywheel out.

 

So whilst it is the gearbox making the noise, it is a result of the change of clutch ...

 

ATS even made a video about it -

 

Edited by Butters

The conclusion I am on at the moment is I want a nismo twin plate mated to dual mass flywheel. 

 

That's the only zero noise, clutch engaged/not engaged option I can think of which of course does not exist. 

 

Going to email neat gearbox for some advice, they might have some options to drop the box noise. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...