Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So every since the conversion if have a miss-fire. It seems to happen in the rev range of 1100-2500.

The car was sitting for a few months during the conversion.

1. Changed the plugs

2. Coil packs are brand new

3. Unplugged coils one by one, nothing seems to change 

4. Sprayed all over vacuum hoses etc with brake cleaner, can't hear anything

5. Vacuum tested when running, looks normal.

6. Unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. ecutalk is seeing voltage. 

I have a consult (ecutalk), but I don't really know what to look for, other than error codes, which there are none.

 

image0 (1).jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482687-missing-after-a-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Yeh, the timing does jump to 15-20, when you take it up past idle. This was taken on idle.

It does have a high idle sometimes. GTSBoy are you saying that IACV is faulty then? Any way to test this?

Cheers

 

On 8/12/2021 at 8:42 PM, elohim_imanu said:

GTSBoy are you saying that IACV is faulty then? Any way to test this?

Yes. It's probably dirty and jammed so that it can't close down far enough. Block off the air pipe that goes to the IACV and see if the idle speed crashes. Otherwise just do the usual clean it out thoroughly thing.

On 13/08/2021 at 11:35 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Are you running the auto ECU? if so, install the manual one.

Yeh, I thought about that. What difference will it make?

On 13/08/2021 at 10:00 AM, elohim_imanu said:

Yeh, I thought about that. What difference will it make?

From what I remember the auto maps have additional compensation timing for the car being in gear, etc.

 

On 13/08/2021 at 12:36 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

From what I remember the auto maps have additional compensation timing for the car being in gear, etc.

 

Yes, I do notice that when in gear the idle raises, cause I plumbed up the neutral switch. That is when I feel the miss/vibration the most. Anything else that I should be concerned about? But I am going to clean the IACV.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...