Central locking/actuators PLEASE HELP MEE

[Yasmeme]

Hey guys!

My r34 rb25de series 1 sedan got stolen and returned and i’m trying to fix it but i’m really stuck on the central locking/actuators  Is there a way to test them/find out what’s wrong with them? I’ve replaced the ignition barrel/door locks and i have a new key but i’m not sure if that affects it... When i put in my alarm system do i need to replace every actuator anyway or is central locking connected to the main driver’s side actuator? I would really appreciate someone’s help  sorry if i explained things badly i have no idea what i am doing

[GTSBoy]

Let's take this apart piece by piece. First though, I have an R32, which I suspect is different in the central locking area from an R34 - I haven't paid any attention to the R34 in that way, so I don't know. So my advice will be a bit general and maybe not 100% on target for the 34.

1. R32s had central locking, but not remote central locking. So only the passenger door (on coupes) had a solenoid. The driver's door was actuated by key or the internal lock at the door handle. When fitting an alarm to provide remote central locking, a typical aftermarket solenoid is installed in the driver's door. The alarm/central locking box drives that solenoid. The passenger door is a slave to the driver's door from factory anyway, and just follows the driver's door after the solenoid moves the driver's side lock on/off.

2. R34s have what? The same, or remote central? If the same as R32, then the paragraph above applies. If they have remote central already, then there is no need to fit aftermarket solenoids. Well, maybe there is. It was reasonably common back in the day to have central locking only on the front doors in cheaper sedans - and an NA Skyline probably fits that description.

3. So the question for you is, "how much central locking did you have before it was stolen?"

4. Changing lock barrels and keys will have no effect on the central locking, whatever and however much of it you have.

5. "When I put in my alarm system"...... Does that imply that you never had an alarm on a Skyline? That's an unexpected situation. How did you get it insured?

6. Any aftermarket alarm/central locking system (in old cars like this - not modern cars with body control computers) will just send a trigger pulse to whatever solenoid is in the driver's door. See points 1 and 2 above for what this means for you installing a solenoid to go with your alarm.

7. The R34 workshop manual is freely downloadable off the 'net and has the wiring diagrams in it. But if, as you say, you have no idea what you're doing, you're probably better off just throwing the car at a good alarm installer, who will be able to decide if you need extra solenoids and put it all in in a couple of hours, and do it properly. There is nothing worse than a bodgily installed alarm/immobiliser, which you could be at some peril of leaving yourself with if you install yourself. You could get stranded on a freeway on-ramp or 300km out into the bush in the middle of the night, or just put up with random glitches like doors not opening, car starting only after performing a strange dance with key on-off-on sort of crap, etc.

[Yasmeme]

On 20/08/2021 at 1:09 PM, GTSBoy said:

Let's take this apart piece by piece. First though, I have an R32, which I suspect is different in the central locking area from an R34 - I haven't paid any attention to the R34 in that way, so I don't know. So my advice will be a bit general and maybe not 100% on target for the 34.

1. R32s had central locking, but not remote central locking. So only the passenger door (on coupes) had a solenoid. The driver's door was actuated by key or the internal lock at the door handle. When fitting an alarm to provide remote central locking, a typical aftermarket solenoid is installed in the driver's door. The alarm/central locking box drives that solenoid. The passenger door is a slave to the driver's door from factory anyway, and just follows the driver's door after the solenoid moves the driver's side lock on/off.

2. R34s have what? The same, or remote central? If the same as R32, then the paragraph above applies. If they have remote central already, then there is no need to fit aftermarket solenoids. Well, maybe there is. It was reasonably common back in the day to have central locking only on the front doors in cheaper sedans - and an NA Skyline probably fits that description.

3. So the question for you is, "how much central locking did you have before it was stolen?"

4. Changing lock barrels and keys will have no effect on the central locking, whatever and however much of it you have.

5. "When I put in my alarm system"...... Does that imply that you never had an alarm on a Skyline? That's an unexpected situation. How did you get it insured?

6. Any aftermarket alarm/central locking system (in old cars like this - not modern cars with body control computers) will just send a trigger pulse to whatever solenoid is in the driver's door. See points 1 and 2 above for what this means for you installing a solenoid to go with your alarm.

7. The R34 workshop manual is freely downloadable off the 'net and has the wiring diagrams in it. But if, as you say, you have no idea what you're doing, you're probably better off just throwing the car at a good alarm installer, who will be able to decide if you need extra solenoids and put it all in in a couple of hours, and do it properly. There is nothing worse than a bodgily installed alarm/immobiliser, which you could be at some peril of leaving yourself with if you install yourself. You could get stranded on a freeway on-ramp or 300km out into the bush in the middle of the night, or just put up with random glitches like doors not opening, car starting only after performing a strange dance with key on-off-on sort of crap, etc.

Wow thank you this is extremely helpful! 
The car definitely had central locking on all doors but a lot of stuff got ripped out when it was stolen, seems like nothing really works anymore  do you think i need to maybe check over fuses? Is there anything else i can do to find out what’s stopping central locking?

As for the insurance... My first car got written off when i was 19 and i made an irresponsible decision i guess hahahaha i paid 3k for the skyline and i’ve never had comprehensive/fire and theft on it because it would have been like 5k for the year and I just like it too much/am too unhinged to sell it? Idk couldn’t explain if i tried but i’m almost 25 now so it’s probably time for some big girl comprehensive i guess!

I have no idea what was up with my alarm/immobiliser... I did have one but clearly it wasn’t too effective! On my cameras they were dicking around trying to hotwire it for literally 30 minutes... safe to say getting one of these cars as someone who knows nothing about them has been a wild ride  

I’m not sure if i have this right but from what i understand after reading this, i don’t need to replace anything in my door cards to add an alarm system, so the central locking issue must be coming from somewhere else? This has gotta be a laughably stupid question but uhh how tf do the solenoids know that a different key is unlocking them???i’m definitely missing something here hahahahahaha

Good point, dodgy immobiliser/alarm would definitely be potential for disaster. I’m just buying the parts for now and seeing if i can maybe do anything myself because i can’t find a single place that can install an alarm for me until september

Thanks heaps for your help!! And sorry for the rambling!

[GTSBoy]

The key/barrel is not electrically connected to anything. In the driver's door there is a (mechanical) rod that runs from the locking mechanism to a switch that triggers the car's own central locking to make the passenger door follow the driver's door. So however you make the driver's door change state (locked, unlocked), that is, either by turning the key, or using the internal lock knob, or if it is remote enabled, pushing the remote button which will make a solenoid in the driver's door move the locking mechanism, the rest of the system just follows along.

So, you probably don't have to add anything into the doors.

But, when you say "seems like nothing really works anymore", it seems to me that you had best get someone who knows auto electrics along to help. It will be impossible to help troubleshoot across the 'net, just too much language that might not be understood coupled with not being able to stand there and see the state of it directly. Know what I mean? In the absence of capable friends to help, that would mean taking it to an auto electrician, or the alarm installer.

If you're in lockdown then just take at least 2 wheels off it and remove the CAS and pull a couple of main fuses and just wait until you can get the alarm installed?