Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR Park lights issue

Djdannyr32

By Djdannyr32,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Djdannyr32 Apprentice

Djdannyr32

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, 

So I know the headlight issue has been beaten to death at this point on GTR's but don't think I've seen this happen and I'm at a loss at this point.

The parking lights, interior lights, and tail lights ( when not on the brake) have all gone out. However, my headlights, high beams and turn signals all work.

The park lights setting on the switch does nothing, as well as the fog light button ( its wired to act as another park light button ) 

I've checked all fuses under the driver footwell, all are intact, tested with voltmeter and good to go. Also tested the relay under the hood as well.

Being the noob I am when it comes to electrical stuff and reading so much about the faulty switch and possible burnt out wiring, I went ahead and replaced both the interior light switch and harness to rule out. No Dice Same issue. 

Ive traced out some wires off the interior harness. it appears there are 3 wires / separate circuit for park lights?

Im going to guess the Green with Red wire is battery feed? It also looks like its split into the fog light button which is making me believe is the issue.

Has anyone had this happen before? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482783-r32-gtr-park-lights-issue/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

You really need to start with some basic checks with a multimeter, that will tell you if power is getting to the switch and from the switch....there are too many places for this to fail after 30 years without knowing that

Djdannyr32 Apprentice

Djdannyr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So just to clarify. 

Ive checked all fuses in the engine bay as well as under dash with multi meter. all good. tested terminals fuses are in as well to check for power. all good.

I do NOT have a fusible link as my battery has been previously relocated to my trunk and on a breaker ( currently good to go) 

I have traced the wires on the interior switch. The park circuit appears to be 3 wires / plugs on that switch, 

a red wire with grey specs, a black wire with grey specs and a Green wire with red stripe. 

I'm assuming that the green wire with the red stripe is supplying battery power as im currently getting nothing from said wire and it appears to be split/spliced into the cars fog light switch ( also acted as park lights switch ) 

 

To answer the above

Lowbeams, highbeams, dome lights and brake lights work. I have a dvd player and yes it works/ plays. 

My park lights, taillights , and dash lights do not ( triple gauges out and haltech ic7 will not flip to night mode ) 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Djdannyr32 Apprentice

Djdannyr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

9/28 update.

 

so I had a lil help and re traced and tested everything possible. 

all fuses intact, power to fuse box on all slots. 

 

Determined that the wiring in the dash for the headlight switch seems to be the culprit. 

The green wire with red appears not to be getting any voltage what so ever. 

also was able to backfeed on separate wire to test, all lights worked when doing so.

does anyone have a clear wiring diagram? my example sucks and cant seem to find any better....

need to find where this wire goes.

 

  • 3 years later...
Djdannyr32 Apprentice

Djdannyr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Being this happened about 4 years ago, i honestly forget exactly what is was, but I wound bringing to Simon at SR Werks when he was here in NY.

He was able to properly diagnose and repair. I believe it had to do with the harness behind my dash. 

  • Like 1
BourneToLive Enthusiast

BourneToLive

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, Djdannyr32 said:

Being this happened about 4 years ago, i honestly forget exactly what is was, but I wound bringing to Simon at SR Werks when he was here in NY.

He was able to properly diagnose and repair. I believe it had to do with the harness behind my dash. 

Yup. Mine was behind the dash. I guess after my IC7 install, the OEM cluster connectors were push into the dash, and the terminals (which are on the exterior of the connector so it contacts the traces in the cluster), contacted the chassis which caused my tail lamp fuse to blow. It also messed with my wideband. Taped them up and that fixed it. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...