Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clutch pedal dropped and didnt come back. Fluid was on MIn so we filled and still nothing. Towed home yet one more time. When bleeding the master cylinder the bleed valve was letting most of the fluis out of the threads. And I also noticed the tabs on the cap were not lining up with the ones on the reservoir. See pic.   20211002_170409.thumb.jpg.528b335a1c15c713ec93ebeb9d159972.jpg

20211002_170405.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482871-clutch-capnipple/
Share on other sites

unless I'm mistaken, the tabs on the cap are not meant to line up, they stop it turning further when you twist it on?

Re the bleeder, when you say it was leaking via the threads was this before or after you undid it to bleed. If the bleeder is blocked it will only leak via the threads which will also make it pretty much impossible to bleed as there is nothing stopping air being pulled back in. Pull it out and see if you can clean it, if not just replace it, any decent parts shop should be able to match it (no location on your profile so I can't advise better on that)

On 10/3/2021 at 1:37 AM, Duncan said:

unless I'm mistaken, the tabs on the cap are not meant to line up, they stop it turning further when you twist it on?

Re the bleeder, when you say it was leaking via the threads was this before or after you undid it to bleed. If the bleeder is blocked it will only leak via the threads which will also make it pretty much impossible to bleed as there is nothing stopping air being pulled back in. Pull it out and see if you can clean it, if not just replace it, any decent parts shop should be able to match it (no location on your profile so I can't advise better on that)

Apologies for the location...North Carolina US

I think you're correct about the tabs. Strange design. If the cap tabs were slightly longer they'd lock in nice.

As for the bleeder, I did go to a local parts store and they had nothing. There is a JDM parts place nearby but they close weekends. I'm going to replace it. I pulled it out all the way and fluid continued to seep out of the cylinder. It was rusted and seems to be blocked 

On 10/2/2021 at 6:08 PM, blind_elk said:

Check the pedal box hasn't broken.

Check under the car that the pushrod hasn't popped out of the slave cylinder - points to a broken pivot ball.

Will do. I've only owned two manual shifts in my day and never had a reason to do anything clutch related. Both had really low mileage and were less than 10 years old. 

 

Just checked at the firewall to see if any fluid has leaked and didnt see anything.

No fluid under the vehicle either

Yesterday did a bleed and pedal was getting better. Took cap off to top off fluid and pedal hit the floor on the next bleed try. I'm going to change the rusted bleeder valve asap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...