Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Have an issue with my r33. Lately (last 2 tanks) has been Randomly pinging/ knocking on boost.

When I first heard it, backed off straight away. Temps seemed fine and was driving fine off boost, almost as it hit full boost, would ping. 
Suspecting shit fuel, put in some octane booster, and that seemed to fix it. 
Fueled up at a different servo, and was going better than ever, zero knocks. Put it down to shit fuel.
 

Current Tank is about 1/4 full, rolled on in third coming home tonight and it pinged again.

Car drives fine, and exactly the same everywhere else, no strange noises, temp is fine.

Car has a Vipec plugin, deutchworks 255l/h fuel pump with 14v feed, splitfires, hyper gear turbo, pretty basic setup. 260ish rwkw,  Tuned by Mitch (of haltech)

Car has been the same for the last 2.5 years, parts were new (apart from ecu) at tune time.

Both times it’s happened now, it’s been between 1/4tank and a 1/3 tank of fuel, unsure if that’s linked. Initially thought maybe a shit fuel pump, but thought that would be more consistent

From what I gather the Vipec plug ins don’t have knock protection? Either that if mines not setup. 
 

Will have to head back to tuners I think. I’m guessing if I can hear knock, it’s probably already doing damage. 
 

After first tank with knocking, pulled plugs out (all looked normal) and did compression test, 165-170 across all 6. Top of pistons looked unmarked.

 

Bloody intermittent issues! 
Anyone had a similar intermittent knocking issues/things I should check?

 

Cheers
 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483055-intermittent-pinging/
Share on other sites

On 12/2/2021 at 6:46 AM, Duncan said:

assuming it is not overboosting....

I would change the fuel filter and if possible check fuel pressure under load. 

Not over boosting, boost control is setup through ecu, but have a gauge with recall, I’ve seen 21-22psi before. When it pinged, didn’t get there, was around 17psi.

Yep that’s the train of thought I’m on. (Fuel supply)

Will sort out a fuel pressure gauge, I think my Defi meter has provisions for another pressure sensor, will also check voltage getting to pump.

 

Thanks

If you have oil pressure gauge already plumbed up you have the option of plugging the oil sender port (generally 1/4 BSP) and then plumbing the sensor into the fuel feed to the rail, you would need a T fitting (2x 5/8th barb and 1x 1/4 BSP) which are readily available

On 12/3/2021 at 1:38 AM, Lithium said:

Have you upgraded your CAS setup? There are various options but an aging RB25 and knock on boost has a definite trigger error feel to it 

Easiest way to test is try a fixed timing test like 15 degrees regardless of load/RPM, get a timing light on it and see how much it jumps around while you rev. Load doesn't really affect timing scatter.

  • Like 1
On 03/12/2021 at 11:25 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Load doesn't really affect timing scatter.

Of course not, but knock becomes a lot more likely if you introduce boost to a setup which has erratic timing 

  • Like 2
On 12/5/2021 at 4:56 PM, CEF33Y said:

Stock (old!) CAS, 

It is very inconsistent. will try the timing check and see what I can find.

Thanks

 

If the timing check shows timing bouncing all over the place despite commanding a fixed value in the ECU then the most likely explanation is either the CAS drive pin on the cam has worn, the CAS drive gear has worn, or both. I suspect a number of the more severe cases of timing scatter are actually due to this issue.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...