Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The time has come to depart with my track-day toy and for someone else to enjoy it as much as I have. I've owned it since 2017 and have used it regularly at PI, Sandown and the occasional Winton events.
 
I'm no longer getting to use it as much as I want to - therefore it needs to go & be enjoyed by the next person.
The car is log booked as a sports sedan and all events entered have been documented. The car was originally registered in NSW (I can give you the history of the car to serious buyers).The vin and chassis number are still ok to be used on the street if ever required.
 
Was last tuned by Racepace in Bayswater VIC with a very safe 14 PSI tune on 98 - see dyno sheet in the images. It's capable of producing plenty more power if that's what you are chasing.
 
A long list of what's included:
  • HKS cams 256/264
  • HKS exh cam gear (VCT remains on the inlet)
  • HKS timing belt
  • N1 water pump
  • Low temp thermostat
  • Plazmaman Plenum
  • 550cc injectors
  • Walbro in tank pump
  • Nismo fuel pressure reg
  • GTR intercooler
  • Custom stainless steel intercooler piping
  • Turbosmart BOV
  • 10 row oil cooler with remote filter
  • Z32 airflow meter
  • Apexi Power FC computer
  • Apexi AVCR Boost controller
  • Stainless steel high mount manifold
  • GT3071R turbo with 0.64 rear hsg ( also has a spare 0.86 ceramic coated rear hsg)
  • Tial 38mm wastegate
  • 3” exh with no cat ( comes with a cat to bolt in if required)
  • Custom 10 ltr sump
  • Splitfire coil packs
  • Rear head drain
  • Ross racing balancer with reduction on W/P and P/S (A/C removed)
  • 5 puck brass button clutch
  • Nismo short shift gear stick
  • Nismo gear knob
  • R33 GTR Brakes, RDA rotors, Hawk / Ferodo pads
  • Patrol master cylinder
  • Braided lines
  • In cabin mounted bias adjuster
  • RPM removable steering wheel
  • Stack dash with shift light
  • 1.5 way mech LSD
  • Alloy bushed rear sub frame with alloy spacers for roll centre adjustment and sub frame pitch adjustment
  • Complete interior strip out and paint
  • 6 point weld in cage with cross in main hoop and rear legs (Cams certified)
  • OMP WRC drivers seat
  • Sparco Passenger seat
  • OMP passenger foot rest
  • Drivers harness
  • Selby sway bars front and rear
  • Various Whiteline bushes throughout the car
  • Completely stripped out wiring and interior and race prepped
  • BC Gold coilovers
  • GKtech front & rear camber arms, caster arms & rear toe arms
  • FIA spec. padding on cage around drivers position

The wheels are Advan’s 17 x 8 front and 17 x 9 rear and they currently have AR1's (50%) on them.

During my time owning the car I've always kept it in top running condition, with frequent maintenance & always did the regular fluid flush's between events. I also have all of the stock suspension parts and various parts/spares, boot lid & OEM spoiler,  dissembled RB25 short block & overhauled head. Front bar is not in great condition, but also have two spares which I haven't had the opportunity to modify to look nice & make fit.

I also have a car trailer (VIC registered) which I use to tow the car around - it has 3mtr ramps and electric brakes with light commercial tyres - all minimal wear. Can sell as a package if interested.

A complete package for getting into some serious fun at track days & not have to worry about destroying your daily!

Not willing to part-out and I'm not in any rush to sell, so low-ballers will not get a response.

The car is based in Moorabbin, VIC.

Looking for offers above $25K (excluding trailer). Contact me via DM here and I'll get in touch with any more info.

 

Dyno Sheet.jpg

on trailer.jpg

Rear DS Qtr.jpg

@wet PI.JPG

Interior.JPG

VIC relay.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483208-r33-gts-t-track-car/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...