Jump to content
SAU Community

2008 Skyline 370gt auto doesn't start

G-noob

By G-noob,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

 Share

Recommended Posts

G-noob Rookie

G-noob

Posted
Posted

Hi guys

A car noob here and i am having trouble trying to start my 370gt. Purchased one year ago and it had been a smooth sailing until now. This afternoon, I tried to start the car, the engine seemed trying to start but somehow it didn't hold. As you can see from this youtube video I uploaded 

https://youtu.be/wlh5r4GBoCg

As you can see, the dashboard and interior light were on and there wasn't "submachine gun" sound coming with dead battery as well. So far I changed the key fob battery, insert the key into the key slot, didn't work. 

It had been a long day so I ended up leaving the car in my office basement and will get back there tomorrow morning and try to sort something out. So any suggestion of the causes or solutions are greatly appreciated

Thank you all and have a good day. 

 

 

 

 

 

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

They do super weird things when the car battery is even the slightest amount flatter than it likes, or is failing/has failed. Try jump starting it with a safe/electrically shielded jumper set, or a plug-in starter/charger pack.

G-noob Rookie

G-noob

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 2/14/2022 at 7:02 PM, Nightcrawler said:

They do super weird things when the car battery is even the slightest amount flatter than it likes, or is failing/has failed. Try jump starting it with a safe/electrically shielded jumper set, or a plus-in starter/charger pack.

I certainly hope that's the batter, then it would be an easy fix. Will give it a try tomorrow and see what happen. Thank you

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Scan tool would be handy to get whatever DTCs are being flagged.

Otherwise, if it is actually trying to kick the starter briefly and then craps out, check battery voltage with a multimeter before and during that cranking. If the battery is in good shape, you should expect around 12.2-12.5V before cranking and no less than about 11V or so during cranking.

If the voltage remains at the non-cranking measurement you made, then you likely don't have power going to the starter. Next, check the relay coil input to see if it is receiving 12V across its coil. If it is, check if the relay itself is indeed clicking and check the power coming out of that relay going to the starter. If you see power leaving the relay, then it must be getting to the starter but perhaps the starter has gone bad. If you don't see power leaving the relay, then it's a bad relay.

We had another dude here have a problem with their starter relay, of which I believe there were two of them to contend with. From memory, they're like $45 a piece from the dealership or something but let's not get ahead of ourselves and just start with those basics.

Vee37 Collaborator

Vee37

Posted
Posted
On 2/14/2022 at 4:24 PM, G-noob said:

Hi guys

A car noob here and i am having trouble trying to start my 370gt. Purchased one year ago and it had been a smooth sailing until now. This afternoon, I tried to start the car, the engine seemed trying to start but somehow it didn't hold. As you can see from this youtube video I uploaded 

https://youtu.be/wlh5r4GBoCg

As you can see, the dashboard and interior light were on and there wasn't "submachine gun" sound coming with dead battery as well. So far I changed the key fob battery, insert the key into the key slot, didn't work. 

It had been a long day so I ended up leaving the car in my office basement and will get back there tomorrow morning and try to sort something out. So any suggestion of the causes or solutions are greatly appreciated

Thank you all and have a good day. 

In the video, it actually sounds that the car has started, but then quickly dies. I also note that it looks like your headlights are on. For battery issues, turn your headlights off. But, the fact that it actually does sound like it starts, I am going to guess its not a flat battery, but may be a failing battery IDK. On my previous car (350GT), I used a Bluetooth ODBII scanner connected to my phone to read the codes. It was cheap, but priceless. I just got the 370GT, so am scared to plug it in, at least till after I have sorted out my NSW registration transfer.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
    • Duncan
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      Not electric car good of course, it's still just a crappy old ICE
    • Duncan
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah, but the good news is that can all be tuned out...the V37 has excellent throttle response now, and with the tiny factory turbos is pretty quick without lag
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I did change bodyshops. The most recent place was very fast. I think the trick is to have smaller, simpler jobs. A front end repaint and some (extensive) sideskirt and fender stuff is a 'small cash' job for them. It was expensive but 'worth' it purely cause: 1) They did everything great 2) They did everything fast Get what you pay for maybe? Pictured: Very stock looking car from my very old phone. I did realise that oncoming traffic would probably be like "Oh look at this guy, commuting around in a GTR!" (until they see the side profile). This is the sad state of my fender liners and front fitment with my current stock GTR sized wheels (18x9 +30) This is how the rear sits with a 25mm spacer. I say 25mm because it's actually a 20mm spacer sitting on the studs which are ~30-31mm, and the wheels have a ~5mm cutout. So... this is very not safe to drive. This is the other side.. .with a 22mm spacer. Yes, the studs are ~27mm. Yes they're different both sides. I spent a fair amount of time measuring. This was the old pod setup behind the box in the past. Old vs New Pod she tells you not to worry about:   Turns out I measured this pod filter pretty damn accurately which I was chuffed about. I went for a ~3hr drive for 'testing' reasons up into Healseville hills. Believe it or not, the induction noise is the same between small and large pod. I guess it has more to do whether a pod is *present* or not, and the diameter of the pipe. It does sound very decent in cabin though (and extremely 'smooth') - Though behind the car the exhaust noise is nonexistent now. So uh, it's all for the driver. I'm confident it has to be quieter than @Dose Pipe Sutututu's car. I should test it. Is there a way to do it with an app or something we can both agree on? (we are both very old men now competing for quietest car) I've texted Trent at Chequered to book in to see some before/after. I can now twist the pod entirely out of the engine bay on the dyno to really rule in/out any intake restrictions. And/or remove the pipe entirely which I will probably do for testing reasons. The logs show *maybe* a difference in ambient KPA vs Intake KPA at wot. But I'm talking the difference to -3/4 before to maybe -2/3 now. The tune is not wildly out or even changed at all. The only takeaway I have is the car is on 17% ethanol as it's still got the fuel from the dyno in it. It's plausible that that tune would have resulted in the car erring on the side of being too rich (it was) and right now it seems to be bang on perfect or within -0.5% either side of target. I was tempted to take it to a Drag day to see what MPH it would trap (and tune the car) but then I wouldn't have a number and a pretty line. I may do that after I re-hit the dyno, purely to go to LS1tech and shout about how their dynos are all very inaccurate while my low HP car traps the same MPH as cars with the same setup in the US, who make 375RWKW (supposedly). It was safe to say Mr Mamo was not really happy with me posting the results yet. So I owe it to at least try the intake thing for my own sake and not besmirch people who want to buy a similar USA heads and cam setup and get disgusted that they make lower HP than simple bolt-ons which can be up to the "330rwkw+" kw region over there - Which here equates to about 270kw. (and runs the same 115-118mph)
×
×
  • Create New...