Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i just bought a r32 gtst, my first car :D:)

I was just wondering what sorta mods should i get to improve handleing, and whats a good, decent size turbo to get ?

How much kw could i make on the gtst, before id have to get all stronger internals ?

P.S - this isnt my user account (using my mates)

ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48346-r32-gtst-just-bought-one/
Share on other sites

If it's your first car I wouldn't put a bigger turbo on.

Turbz lag has an unfortunate habit of kicking in around a corner when people don't expect them... to anyone let alone first drivers.

I don't want to sound patronising. I've owned a few cars, even a v8 there but never a turbz so I wouldn't even trust myself with a fat turbz.

Personally I will be upgrading the brakes so I can do some track work to learn the car.

I'd also probably look at a whiteline kit for suspension.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/fact_shee...line_R32GTS.PDF

One of the first things I'll be doing with my r32.

Oh. and also I'd make myself an account and possibly join the club :D

As for the other questions someone else will have to answer you I'm not too sure - I'd expect about 200-250kw?

I'd seriously wait for later though.

First cars and skylines = I'm scared.

JIC or Blisten coilovers are good.. so if its too low and you have to raise it to clear a defect you can just do it yourslelf..

Congrats on a skylines for your 1st car..

My first was also a skyline.. R32 GTS4.. it was a great car!

no need to touch the actual calipers on a Type-M R32. They have awesome brakes from the factory. A whiteline kit and some decent pads for your brakes are a good start.

Get used to the power (you will safely if you are sensible) then go from there.

Personally I will be upgrading the brakes so I can do some track work to learn the car.

/QUOTE]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...