Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had actually been considering that relocation kit but wasn't sure if it was adding unnecessary complication and cost since I didn't have any plans to install an oil cooler. It's also my understanding that this would delete the oil warmer, which seems like a good thing to retain for getting things up to temperature as quickly as possible (Canberra winter mornings are cold!).

The warmer setup looks to be the same on the RB25 but I can't tell from the outside whether the filter or the warmer is getting oil first. If this diagram is to be believed, the warmer is getting flow first (on the RB26 at least):

image.thumb.png.c9db55e9dbc95de8afce80c2ded131b1.png

That is a good diagram, but it doesn't show where the temp sender is (and it is kind of a moot point since you are looking for rb25 not rb26). It does show the filter is the last thing before the main oil gallery which makes sense, you want the oil to be cleanest when it enters the engine.

You are right, the oil warmer is of use in cold climates in the morning, although the alternative is just to go easy until the oil is up to temp (which is of course what you would do anyway), I don't know how much difference it makes in warm up time. 

The reason I like the relocator kit is that it both gives a great place for oil senders, and lets you move the filter somewhere nice (whether that is for you or a mechanic). You don't need to do an oil cooler at the same time but it makes it easier if you decide to later (you just run the out from the engine to the oil cooler, and the other oil cooler port to the in on the filter mount)

An oil sandwich block can also work but has 2 problems compared to relocating. 1 they are generally screw mount (using the oil filter thread) so you need to make sure they are done up tight and stay done up tight. 2 they space the oil filter out (say 20mm? depending on model) which can make it VERY tight for a decent sized oil filter, and for the hand/tools that are changing the oil filter

On 5/21/2022 at 3:13 PM, Duncan said:

That is a good diagram, but it doesn't show where the temp sender is (and it is kind of a moot point since you are looking for rb25 not rb26). It does show the filter is the last thing before the main oil gallery which makes sense, you want the oil to be cleanest when it enters the engine.

You are right, the oil warmer is of use in cold climates in the morning, although the alternative is just to go easy until the oil is up to temp (which is of course what you would do anyway), I don't know how much difference it makes in warm up time. 

The reason I like the relocator kit is that it both gives a great place for oil senders, and lets you move the filter somewhere nice (whether that is for you or a mechanic). You don't need to do an oil cooler at the same time but it makes it easier if you decide to later (you just run the out from the engine to the oil cooler, and the other oil cooler port to the in on the filter mount)

An oil sandwich block can also work but has 2 problems compared to relocating. 1 they are generally screw mount (using the oil filter thread) so you need to make sure they are done up tight and stay done up tight. 2 they space the oil filter out (say 20mm? depending on model) which can make it VERY tight for a decent sized oil filter, and for the hand/tools that are changing the oil filter

RBs already take ages to get the oil up to temperature when I stare at the gauge and that's in a pretty temperate climate driving the car gingerly to warm it up. Can't imagine having it take even longer without the OEM heat exchanger. Obviously for a full race kind of deal there's no point in having one, the N1 cars deleted all of that in favor of having an air cooled setup mounted in front of the radiator.

I have wondered for a while now, what's keeping people from using a very high impedance analog input to sample the OEM sensor instead of adding more sensors that clutter up what is already a very cramped area of the engine? The gauge reacts very slowly obviously but is the same true of the actual sensor itself?

On 22/05/2022 at 9:49 AM, joshuaho96 said:

RBs already take ages to get the oil up to temperature when I stare at the gauge and that's in a pretty temperate climate driving the car gingerly to warm it up. Can't imagine having it take even longer without the OEM heat exchanger. Obviously for a full race kind of deal there's no point in having one, the N1 cars deleted all of that in favor of having an air cooled setup mounted in front of the radiator.

I have wondered for a while now, what's keeping people from using a very high impedance analog input to sample the OEM sensor instead of adding more sensors that clutter up what is already a very cramped area of the engine? The gauge reacts very slowly obviously but is the same true of the actual sensor itself?

Well he mentioned adding oil temp sensor also, so adding an additional gauge means he has no choice to but to find a way to fit an extra sensor in there. 

But as for your question, convenience is the likely answer. Seems easy to just chuck a new sensor in there somewhere, new gauge on the dash and just not rely on any oem sensor, wiring, or gauges. 

On 5/21/2022 at 4:59 PM, Chopstick Tuner said:

Well he mentioned adding oil temp sensor also, so adding an additional gauge means he has no choice to but to find a way to fit an extra sensor in there. 

But as for your question, convenience is the likely answer. Seems easy to just chuck a new sensor in there somewhere, new gauge on the dash and just not rely on any oem sensor, wiring, or gauges. 

I was visualizing a splitter like this so you can just run wires to your ECU/gauge/etc without chopping up a harness or something like that, the important part is to get as close to infinite impedance as possible on the new wiring so as not to disturb the existing electronics that need that sensor as well:

 image.thumb.png.327f519ea885e3dc821b14764bd01b0c.png

On 22/05/2022 at 10:04 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I was visualizing a splitter like this so you can just run wires to your ECU/gauge/etc without chopping up a harness or something like that, the important part is to get as close to infinite impedance as possible on the new wiring so as not to disturb the existing electronics that need that sensor as well:

 image.thumb.png.327f519ea885e3dc821b14764bd01b0c.png

Now I get ya, interesting. Would you put an aftermarket sensor in and bin the oem one, then use that sensor to do your factory gauge as well as a new gauge or ecu input? 

Because I considered getting rid of oem one but didn't want the oil light on the dash, or to bridge the factory wires. 

On 5/21/2022 at 5:15 PM, Chopstick Tuner said:

Now I get ya, interesting. Would you put an aftermarket sensor in and bin the oem one, then use that sensor to do your factory gauge as well as a new gauge or ecu input? 

Because I considered getting rid of oem one but didn't want the oil light on the dash, or to bridge the factory wires. 

In this scenario you'd have to keep the OEM sensor, presumably it would be easier to rig up something to test the calibration of your sensor and put that calibration in your standalone ECU/dash/etc compared to adjusting the calibration of the factory gauges to suit a new aftermarket sensor. This only makes sense though if the factory sensor is actually good enough to use. For example the OEM RB26 IAT sensor is really a coolant temperature sensor so it's useless for speed density because it takes so long to react.

On 22/05/2022 at 8:13 AM, Duncan said:

That is a good diagram, but it doesn't show where the temp sender is (and it is kind of a moot point since you are looking for rb25 not rb26). It does show the filter is the last thing before the main oil gallery which makes sense, you want the oil to be cleanest when it enters the engine.

You are right, the oil warmer is of use in cold climates in the morning, although the alternative is just to go easy until the oil is up to temp (which is of course what you would do anyway), I don't know how much difference it makes in warm up time. 

The reason I like the relocator kit is that it both gives a great place for oil senders, and lets you move the filter somewhere nice (whether that is for you or a mechanic). You don't need to do an oil cooler at the same time but it makes it easier if you decide to later (you just run the out from the engine to the oil cooler, and the other oil cooler port to the in on the filter mount)

An oil sandwich block can also work but has 2 problems compared to relocating. 1 they are generally screw mount (using the oil filter thread) so you need to make sure they are done up tight and stay done up tight. 2 they space the oil filter out (say 20mm? depending on model) which can make it VERY tight for a decent sized oil filter, and for the hand/tools that are changing the oil filter

True.

You are right that I'd take it easy until things are warm regardless of whether I retain the heater. In my searching through the forums prior to starting this thread I feel like I saw someone say that they had experienced much longer warm up times after the deletion of their heater but I can't seem to find it again. Either way I suppose that's only one anecdotal account.

I too like the idea of the relocator kit, especially since the factory location is a bit messy during oil changes. I much prefer cars doin them on cars with upside down filters that have no other bits between the filter and the ground. As I said, the only thing that concerns me is whether the heater delete is a worthy trade-off.

Good point regarding clearance around the filter with the addition of a sandwich plate. I hadn't considered that.

 

For context, my primary aim is to measure oil pressure for the purposes of engine protection. I just figured that it was probably worth chucking in oil temperature if I'm going to the effort of adding a bunch of other sensors to the engine when I install my Haltech.

On 5/20/2022 at 10:50 PM, Ben C34 said:

How does tapered thread factor in at all?

Any examples or just theory ?

It was common knowledge at one stage - maybe not anymore judging by the response. Most recent one I can think was a mate's dyno room probably 5 years ago, cursing a customer's twink that made a nice mess on the floor and walls.

Big lever arm on a small NPT, BSPT, BSPP, whatever, it doesn't really matter.......poor wording on my part.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

In case someone comes across this thread in the future looking for the same/similar info: Raceworks part number RWF-809-02SS is too long and you can't connect the factory loom back onto the factory sensor.

RWF-808-02SS

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...