Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it even possible (and cost effective) to get the short OEM hard line that attaches to the front caliper itself? The pipe nuts on mine are well round and were a pain to remove to get caliper off. 

I already have braided lines up to there so before I fork out for another set of braided lines just so I can delete the hard line I figured I'd see if anyone knows a part number or aftermarket option. Tried searching and all I get is braided kits lol. 

And obvs if they're gonna be crazy money I'll just have to get new braided lines to make life easier

 

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483886-r32-brakes-front-hard-line/
Share on other sites

On 23/07/2022 at 7:12 PM, Duncan said:

Part numbers are 

46245-05U01

46246-05U01

Amayama says they are non available and out of production

Everyone just replaces the hard and soft lines with a single piece braided line

Actually looks a bit different, mine is gtst and just goes like 2 inches downward curving. 

However if the gtr one is discontinued then surely the rest are too so I think I'll have to bite the bullet and just change for a single piece braided line. Cheers for your help

On 23/07/2022 at 8:27 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

Yeah this is what I was looking at, think I'll have more peace of mind just biting the bullet

On 23/07/2022 at 8:39 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's also the work of 5 minutes to make replacement hard line pieces with a flare tool and 6" of bundy tube.

This is true but I don't have any of the above, I work on stuff that's much bigger as a career so don't really find myself making brake lines or anything similar. 

There will be a heap of mechanics that have tooling to make up hard brake lines. I would bet that any workshop that specialises in older cars, say restoring old MG's, would have tooling to make up hard lines. It should be cheap and easy to get something made up for you. 

Having said that, I don't know anyone that has bothered to make up hard lines when there are braided lines readily available that do the same thing. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...