Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When you changed across, did you re-use the factory oil return pipe? I thought there was a physical difference between factory and garret cores, which is why these exist: https://justjap.com/products/xtr-turbo-oil-drain-adapter-garrett-t28 

If it fitted up fine, I can only suggest pulling the oil drain again (real pain) and checking the gasket and mating surfaces

Thanks Duncan.

I did re-use the factory line and it seemed to fit fine - the heat wrap was butted up against the compressor housing (as with the OEM turbo) but I did not have to force anything. The rear turbo oil return pipe is not leaking maybe because it is a different shape?

I've resigned  my self to checking the gasket and mating surfaces as you suggest. Is it possible to do this without removing the turbo? I seem to remember having to fit the return pipe before the oil & water feed pipes so I don't know whether I will be able to drop return pipe enough to either slide in a new gasket or view the mating surfaces.

If you're using paper gaskets one thing you could try is spraying this copper spray on a new gasket after cleaning off the oil to see if that improves things: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-high-temp-sealant-12-oz/

I only suggest this if it's less effort to slide a paper gasket in there somehow instead of possibly pulling apart most of the turbo support infrastructure to replace the return pipe and gasket.

Sorry to say, it is very difficult to get the hose off with the turbo in place because the 2 hard lines don't have much gap between them, it is highly likely to split the rubber hose. Unfortunately taking the turbo off will be easiest.

 

Thanks Duncan.

Based on my experience of removing the OEM turbo I think it may be possible to remove the rubber hose - I'm just not sure if I will be able to either remove the metal oil return pipe or drop it enough to replace the gasket.

I guess I might as well try this first if I have to remove the turbo anyway. It would just be nice to know it is possible before I try 🙂

 

34 minutes ago, proline said:

Thanks for the suggestion Joshuaho96.

That gasket sealant has temperature range of a max of 260 deg centigrade - would this be high enough for a turbo oil return flange?

It's not directly exposed to exhaust gas temperatures and it's presumably carrying a bunch of oil in it so that will help bring temps closer to 100C. So it should be fine. If you have to pull everything apart anyways you can verify you have the right pipe, make sure both flanges are flat, then use this sealant on top of a clean/flat/new/etc gasket to try and give it the best odds of sealing properly. Also worth mentioning that this copper spray sealant is probably not great to breathe in, make sure to use outdoors like rattlecan and use some cardboard to catch overspray.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...