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About rossperformance damper relocation kit

bigboss59400
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bigboss59400 Community Regular

bigboss59400

Posted
Posted

Hi,

If using a race/serie damper :

- without AC, no relocation kit needed, it means that the steering pump pulley is aligned with the groove of the damper

- with AC, a relocation kit is needed, I would expect only to have a bracket for the AC compressor to move it forward however there is also another pulley and a bracket to move forward the steering pump which makes no sense ?

Obviously there is something I don't catch

Best regards

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure I've told you this all before in another thread. The deal is with the Ross race or gold series damper they are designed not to use ac and only has 2 pulleys standard, so where the ac belt would normally sit on the balancer that is a solid dampened area and then the power steering belt runs on the 2nd outer pulley in the factory alignment. Remember the ps is the very outside belt not the ac normally.

If you want to run ac they remove the outer damper ps pulley and put an ac pulley in that alignment then bolt the ps pulley on the outside of that pulley. This has the effect of moving both the ps and ac pulleys forward 25mm on the balancer, meaning you need the ac and ps relocation brackets to move the ps pump and ac compressor forward 25mm to realign with the balancer.

Relocation of the ps and ac forward 25mm means you cannot use the factory radiator fan anymore as it will hit - I measured my r32 and R33 GTRs for Ross to confirm that you can't run the ac relocation with a factory fan without hitting the ps. The 32 was somewhere around 16mm and the 33 was less at only 12mm. I believe the 34 is pretty much the same as the 33, but anyway none of the GTRs have 25mm + down there so it doesn't work unless you go thermo fans when relocating both ps and ac.

Hence why I ditched the whole ac relocate idea and went back to their current integrated trigger 800hp Tuffbond balancer as everything lines up like factory. Take their power ratings with a grain of salt - they are conservative on their power ratings and admitted themselves you can't actually rate a balancer in power. I'd suggest just get a Tuffbond unless you want to ditch the ac.

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BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Surely this is just screaming out for either an electric AC compressor or an electric PS pump to solve the problem? Guessing PS pump the lower power/easier option.

To retain ps in factory alignment I'd say so for electric ac.

Obviously to keep ac belt driven you'd need electric ps and still need to relocate the ac 25mm.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, BK said:

To retain ps in factory alignment I'd say so for electric ac

My thinking is that mech driven AC comps use a couple of horsepower to drive them. So, if an elec AC comp was in some way super efficient and only used 1500W, it would still pull >100A on a 12V feed. I think the electric AC systems are from electric cars with much higher voltage supplies available.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
On 28/12/2022 at 10:39 AM, GTSBoy said:

My thinking is that mech driven AC comps use a couple of horsepower to drive them. So, if an elec AC comp was in some way super efficient and only used 1500W, it would still pull >100A on a 12V feed. I think the electric AC systems are from electric cars with much higher voltage supplies available.

I agree with electric aircon being a no go from a high electrical load perspective, so with the Race or Gold dampers that brings you back to:

-Having to relocate the ac 25mm to keep it mechanical then go electric ps pump to be able to use your factory viscous fan

-The undesired approach to relocate ac and ps 25mm, ditch viscous fan and switch to thermos or

-Ditch the ac all together, run factory fan and not relocate ps.

I couldn't be f**ked doing any of those options when the Ross Tuffbond is factory alignment and will be fine unless you're looking at 700kw + or stupid 10k rpm stuff.

bigboss59400 Community Regular

bigboss59400

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Posted

Thanks for all your reply !

I would prefer to keep the PS stock and elec AC is not really possible as you mention

 

@BK, indeed you already make some explanations but I didn't understood the purpose of the kit, now I do thanks to you

"If you want to run ac they remove the outer damper ps pulley and put an ac pulley in that alignment then bolt the ps pulley on the outside of that pulley. "

I didn't know the outer pulley was screwed to the damper itself !!! this is now 100% clear !

 

Couldn't we run the AC and PS on the same belt ? (so we need only to relocate AC )

Assuming ratio are ok

 

find in attachment some pictures of my r34 gtr

thumbnkail.jpg

thumbnail.jpg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, bigboss59400 said:

Couldn't we run the AC and PS on the same belt ? (so we need only to relocate AC )

It's a lot of load for the one belt to have to pick up at the crank pulley and it would be difficult** to arrange the two pumps so that you go enough wrap on the crank pulley to do it.

**Potentially impossible to transmit sufficient torque even should you be able to locate them so that you can get the maximum wrap around the crank pulley.

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