Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

22 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Yes replace the nissan IAT with a GM style one.
With the Link ecu you want IAT and Wideband sensors at a minimum can add Oil and fuel pressure and utilise the safety strategies.

I have to ask since i cant find anything about it. "GM" style, what does GM mean?

14 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

Haha, would this be possible?. I have a Maxxecu for my other car. The maxxecu is not a plug in, so if i make a loom for the GTR aswell i could just with a milspec connector put the ecu in that car that i want to drive 🧐

Quick disconnect from one car with the milspec connector and just plug the ecu in the other one 😆?

You should make sure that your ECU plugs are rated for USB levels of insert/disconnect cycles or you're going to need new connectors before long. Many connectors out there are only rated for say 50-100 cycles before they need replacement.

1 hour ago, reallyspeedly said:

I have to ask since i cant find anything about it. "GM" style, what does GM mean?

https://www.efihardware.com/products/331/air-temp-sensor-Delco-14mm

^^ something similiar to this. Cheap, reliable and available everywhere as General Motors (GM) used it.

Pressure sensor. Bosch/honeywell are most common and reliable.
https://www.efihardware.com/products/3300/pressure-sensor-150psi-10bar-honeywell
 

  • Like 1
33 minutes ago, reallyspeedly said:

Some of the parts are now received. (y) :D 

one thing that came up to my mind was the clutch. How are they holding on these cars? I cant remeber but i belive its the oem clutch i my r32. I guess i need to upgrade that aswell?

For -5s? Absolutely.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...