Jump to content
SAU Community

Barra Swapped 1993 R33 Project


Recommended Posts

Few people have mentioned I should start a build thread so here we go! 

In short, I've picked up a 1993 R33 factory RB25DET 4spd Auto and I'm going to be barra swapping it. I've built several factory Barra powered vehicles now and wanted to pick a nice light JDM shell to commit to. To start out, the car will take form with 350-400rwkw, which will be plenty to get comfortable in. I've put in a summary of some things needed to be done to the existing shell and also what the driveline will entail. 

ENGINE

Built Greentop Barra on E85(Just the usual springs, gears, studs etc), GTX3582 GEN II High mounted, 50mm Screamer. 

GEARBOX

Fully built BTR 4 Speed with high-stalled converter (1st and 2nd are tall gears, paired with the 4.36 auto diff assuming it stays alive will make for some awesome launches)

I aim to sell the motor short term from the car once my destroked projects have proven successful in the XR6T's (Falcons, just less muck around with R&D). Would be similar power level as before, just with a stupidly high capacity for revs (9k rpm+), pushing that torque back would help with traction too. 

SHELL WORK

Full closed door respray in factory KH2 (GUN METAL), I'll be getting the body as straight as possible

Engine bay spray

Chassis Spray

Full rebuilt on suspension (front and rear)

Front end work (slight damage but have a full half cut so not to worry)

 

There is heaps more but I'll update as I go, I'll try keep it as comprehensive as possible for anyone using it as a resource.

For anyone interested, my YouTube is The Barra Specialist where I'll be documenting the whole build once I've restored the shell.

 

PREP1.jpg

PREP2.jpg

PREP3.jpg

PREP4.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...