Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR actuator leak...

Jjtxaz24
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright. Update. 

I got the fluids in the transfer case. Went to try and bleed the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and when I would unplug the clip in the front driver side I would hear the relay in the boot click on but i didnt hear the pump prime. I think the pumps screwed now. 

I dont know if it leaks just yet where the actuator mates with the transfer case, it was late when I did it. 

Should I leave the 4WD fuse out under the dash or put it in and see if it moved the fluid into the reservoir. 

Heres what it currently looks like: 20230705_222625.thumb.jpg.2a0ece8cf7243bf612eb13f34ae06305.jpg

heres what I used as a guide: 

Screenshot_20230706_004256_Drive.thumb.jpg.ec363e3ec7affa5b958e045ac6882815.jpg

And also this video link: 

 

 

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I drove the car this morning and the 4WD light on the gauge cluster is off (from what I read it comes on due to being low on fluid), picture in my last post is where the fluid level is still at. The torque gauge in the cluster moves up as normal when I pick up the RPMs. It seems to be working fine I just cant get the fluid to fill the enclosed part of the reservoir by activating the pump how the manual suggest. 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Well, I know both the manual and old mate's video talk about the lower section, 5mm etc etc.

I've never worried about that and not had a 4wd issue, just drive it and forget it unless you notice an issue...

BTW the error light is not just for low fluid level, the ATTESSA system itself can flash error codes with that light when there is a specific problem. Also, the torque gauge is not a reliable way to know 4wd is working correctly, it shows what the ATTESSA computer wants to happen, not what is actually happening mechanically. Other than trying a skid, the next best way to check the 4wd would be with all 4 wheels off the ground (hoist or on stands), just start it and put it in 1st to make sure all 4 wheels are turning approximately the same speed.

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Well, I know both the manual and old mate's video talk about the lower section, 5mm etc etc.

I've never worried about that and not had a 4wd issue, just drive it and forget it unless you notice an issue...

BTW the error light is not just for low fluid level, the ATTESSA system itself can flash error codes with that light when there is a specific problem. Also, the torque gauge is not a reliable way to know 4wd is working correctly, it shows what the ATTESSA computer wants to happen, not what is actually happening mechanically. Other than trying a skid, the next best way to check the 4wd would be with all 4 wheels off the ground (hoist or on stands), just start it and put it in 1st to make sure all 4 wheels are turning approximately the same speed.

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol. 

  • 2 weeks later...
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 7/6/2023 at 4:08 PM, Jjtxaz24 said:

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol. 

Definitely if you didn't have a screw loose already these cars will make it happen. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...