Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR actuator leak...

Jjtxaz24
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright. Update. 

I got the fluids in the transfer case. Went to try and bleed the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and when I would unplug the clip in the front driver side I would hear the relay in the boot click on but i didnt hear the pump prime. I think the pumps screwed now. 

I dont know if it leaks just yet where the actuator mates with the transfer case, it was late when I did it. 

Should I leave the 4WD fuse out under the dash or put it in and see if it moved the fluid into the reservoir. 

Heres what it currently looks like: 20230705_222625.thumb.jpg.2a0ece8cf7243bf612eb13f34ae06305.jpg

heres what I used as a guide: 

Screenshot_20230706_004256_Drive.thumb.jpg.ec363e3ec7affa5b958e045ac6882815.jpg

And also this video link: 

 

 

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I drove the car this morning and the 4WD light on the gauge cluster is off (from what I read it comes on due to being low on fluid), picture in my last post is where the fluid level is still at. The torque gauge in the cluster moves up as normal when I pick up the RPMs. It seems to be working fine I just cant get the fluid to fill the enclosed part of the reservoir by activating the pump how the manual suggest. 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Well, I know both the manual and old mate's video talk about the lower section, 5mm etc etc.

I've never worried about that and not had a 4wd issue, just drive it and forget it unless you notice an issue...

BTW the error light is not just for low fluid level, the ATTESSA system itself can flash error codes with that light when there is a specific problem. Also, the torque gauge is not a reliable way to know 4wd is working correctly, it shows what the ATTESSA computer wants to happen, not what is actually happening mechanically. Other than trying a skid, the next best way to check the 4wd would be with all 4 wheels off the ground (hoist or on stands), just start it and put it in 1st to make sure all 4 wheels are turning approximately the same speed.

Jjtxaz24 Collaborator

Jjtxaz24

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Well, I know both the manual and old mate's video talk about the lower section, 5mm etc etc.

I've never worried about that and not had a 4wd issue, just drive it and forget it unless you notice an issue...

BTW the error light is not just for low fluid level, the ATTESSA system itself can flash error codes with that light when there is a specific problem. Also, the torque gauge is not a reliable way to know 4wd is working correctly, it shows what the ATTESSA computer wants to happen, not what is actually happening mechanically. Other than trying a skid, the next best way to check the 4wd would be with all 4 wheels off the ground (hoist or on stands), just start it and put it in 1st to make sure all 4 wheels are turning approximately the same speed.

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol. 

  • 2 weeks later...
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 7/6/2023 at 4:08 PM, Jjtxaz24 said:

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol. 

Definitely if you didn't have a screw loose already these cars will make it happen. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • PranK
      2001 R34DE

      By PranK · Posted

      Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...