Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Which set costs 4k? The MCA Pro Comfort full set is $2,490. There is another option that gets you a bit closer to your original budget, the Voston Comfort set is $1,890. Maybe have a chat with MCA and see if it would suit your needs. 

There is nothing magical about the factory coilovers. Aftermarket coilovers can be setup to more comfortable then the factory suspension. When you have complete control over the spring rates and valving, you can select the specs that are right for you. 

Oh my bad I was looking at the wrong one, just found the one you mentioned. Cheers for that extra info.

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

That really really depends on what you mean by "comfortable like stock". I would argue that stock is not comfortable because they wallow around, body roll, jump under severe bumps in corners, etc etc.

What Murray said is absolutely the case. Good monotube dampers are worlds apart from twin tubes. I pointed you to (cheap....ish) KYB twin tubes as being the simplest and lowest cost way to retain your springs and get something at least as good as your concept of how comfortable stock dampers are. But I would never do that myself. I have custom valved Bilstein B6s with Kings. Those dampers are no longer available in that style (the guy modding them isn't doing it any more), and so I can't even recommend those. And therefore, if I needed to replace mine, and if I'm asked to recommend a path to upgraded suspension, I will lean towards and recommend MCA or equivalent (depending on country of residence, etc).

$2500 is not expensive for a set of high quality coilovers. It's not 1999 any more. $2500 of 2023 dollars is barely enough to buy a decent set of tyres. You get a lot of suspension performance for your $2500. You wanna talk expensive? There are options that can easily scale to 10x the prices we're talking about here.

There's no point in setting a budget for car mods. You either buy the thing you want, and pay for it, or you just settle for something much much less (and possibly do nothing at all). In your case, the choices really are between the absolute minimum of a set of twin tube stock style dampers, or proper coilovers.

I see what you mean, valid points. I thought the mark was around $1,500 for a quality set but I'll ring MCA and go from there. Knowing me I'll probably end up going with the KYB set lol, but will ring MCA first and get more info.

I can tell you now that the $2500 is worth and the more you spend the better they get.

My old mca x-r (2015 spec) ride better than my 370z nismo suspension. The reds are firmer and more track spec .

Comfort sports will be what your looking for. They take bumps and pot holes smoothly and don't bang like teins. 

 

Who ever told you coilovers ride shit have never been in a well setup car.

  • Like 1

Just buy the best your budget allows

In saying that $1.5k will get you average suspension, bit spending $2.5k can be much much better dependant on valving and spring rates

Remember, good suspension isn't just race car stuff, you brakes rely on good suspension to work properly, compliance on crappy bumpy roads requires good dampening and correct spring rates to work correctly 

For a street car choosing the right dampening and matching spring rates is essential for a ride that doesn't have you bouncing down the road or shooting shock loads from bumpy roads up your spine

I had MCA Comforts in my Limited edition 86, they were much better than the "performance Sachs" coilovers that the car came with from new

I had BC in my MX5 and they were OK on the track, but they were oversprung and rubbish on the street

I also had new standard shocks and Kings in my VX SS, they were comfy, but the car "wallowed" around, I have now swapped them out for some Pedders Extreme and they are just as compliant (rubber top bushings not pillow ball), but the big fat old car now handles so much better

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/pillow-ball-or-rubber-top-mounts.376578/

bruce-campbell-army-of-darkness.thumb.gif.73e6258a1123f5d7b8bdfc2fbd532a0f.gif

 

  • Like 1
10 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Who ever told you coilovers ride shit have never been in a well setup car.

This everytime!

A few mates that have driven my car still find it hard to believe it has 13kg/mm springs at the front. 

  • Like 1

Damping has a lot more to do with it than spring pressure. Maybe. I don't know. All I know is I got my Bilsteins revalved by Bilstein (they'll do it if you ask lol) and had a chat with an Engineer with regards to what I want and what I want to focus on. They drive entirely different now even though they're on the same springs as before.

I would say that 13kg/mm springs are entirely fine, if the damping is matched to them. Which obviously they should be if you're out there designing shocks and springs and selling them :D

TLDR: Damping has a bigger effect on ride quality and I think is the magic sauce between a 'good' and 'bad' coilover, not spring strength, based on my sample size of 1.

  • Like 2
9 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Damping has a lot more to do with it than spring pressure. Maybe. I don't know. All I know is I got my Bilsteins revalved by Bilstein (they'll do it if you ask lol) and had a chat with an Engineer with regards to what I want and what I want to focus on. They drive entirely different now even though they're on the same springs as before.

I would say that 13kg/mm springs are entirely fine, if the damping is matched to them. Which obviously they should be if you're out there designing shocks and springs and selling them :D

TLDR: Damping has a bigger effect on ride quality and I think is the magic sauce between a 'good' and 'bad' coilover, not spring strength, based on my sample size of 1.

I put my dampening all the way on soft, and when I compare my car to my stock Subaru I can definitely feel the difference lol. Maybe I just have cheap Tein's, anyhow am looking into options atm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...