Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just throught i'd post up my brake upgrade info,

what i'm doing is using s-13 coilovers and hubs, redrilled r32 gts-t rotors and 4 spot calipars. from what i've been told by a few people who have used this method is that it will work?

started with the rotors and calipars picked them up both front and rear for $410.

next is the s-13 coilovers which i've lined up a front set of JIC ones that have just been recoed and will set me back $690.

hubs are a bit of a mystery at the moment as i'm waiting to here from a couple of people. looking like beening anywhere from $200 to $360 dont know final price yet.

this is as far as i'm at at the moment! i know what the process is but will take it step by step over the next two weeks pics of each stage will be provided..

anyone with helpful ideas....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48517-r30r32-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Not trying to re-direct too much,but what was the conclusion about HR31 struts into R30?

HR31's have the same 100mm caliper spacing as S13/R32,etc,so the 4 pots would bolt straight on,and the bigger discs slide straight over the hubs (after redrilling to 4stud) as they're not a single piece,as in the '30s.... Might be a cheaper way to go?

ps-are you wanting to go 4 or 5 stud hubs?

i did think about it but there not as eazy to find as a set of s-13 coilovers, i can get a set of jap spec r31 struts but they have the aus r31 rotors and calipars on them so i'm thinking there not what i'd need. i just dont want to have to import the bits..

i'll keep it 4x114.3 stud pattern

have a look in the for sale section for the going prices on the gtr bits..

got the hubs lined up yesterday for $200 so thats all the bits i need.

total has cost me $410 private sale

$690 local importer

$180 private sale

--------

$1280

theres a little bit of machining to be done to get some bolts to fit

other than that the next expence will be new pads, fingers crossed.

I have just done this myself. One thing I found is that I had to modify my strut tops to get any decent amounts of camber, as the s13's are 180 degrees out. Just elongated all 3 holes in the camber tops.

I have just sorted r32/33 brakes on to DR30 struts for a mate too all that is needed is a 10mm spacer. and hubs turned down slighty.

I have just done this myself. One thing I found is that I had to modify my strut tops to get any decent amounts of camber, as the s13's are 180 degrees out. Just elongated all 3 holes in the camber tops.  

I have just sorted r32/33 brakes on to DR30 struts for a mate too all that is needed is a 10mm spacer. and hubs turned down slighty.

any tips or things i should look out for as i've just got the coilovers and habs today?

i'm working of the info from the 910 site i think phat or someone else posted up and have posted a few questions in the forum, looks like theres no wories with the front

here is what i have so far, i have the hubs too but no pic at the moment:

i need to put the work of for now as i'm having trouble getting an auto electrican to finish the last few bits.

  • 5 weeks later...
In the future I hope to use R32 GTR bits on my DR30 . Do you know if GTR calipers use larger pistons that the GTS-T(R32) and are the pads the same . Hate to ask but what would the GTR bits cost ?

Yep the GTR calipers are much much bigger, if u hold them side by side with a GTS-t caliper you'll notice the difference hey, the GTR also uses a bigger rotor!!

I cheated, i bought Crimmo's setup hehehehe :);)

found out today my machanic is on holidays till the end of the month, so i'll get the work done when he gets back, i'm working on a +35 offset for the front to fill the gaurds got the rims allready 17" P1 racing, i've put them on the car once so far and there is a bit of a gap so i'm hoping the coilovers and s-13 hubs will sit out more...

I got the s13 set up running. using some wheels I have not sure on the offset but they are about right on a 180B and running 30mm bolt-on wheels spacers with around 3.5 degrees camber they sit flush at the top of the guards at the front and stick out a fair bit at the bottom.

I drove the car around for a day with the front wheels in the guards just and the rears almost with the rim itself in the guards with about 70mm of ground clearence to the chassis rails and a lot less for my exhaust. Looked damn tuff but I chewed out a drive shaft CV in under a day so jacked it up a good 1 1/2 inches the next day. Still sits damn low, but plenty of ground clearance for everyday driving.

My front end is now all done., sits tough on the ground, low enough to look tough, but not low enough to create attention..I've got 215/45/17's on the front and it fills the guarsd out nicely as well!! needs a bloody wheel alignment though something cronic haha!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...