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Hi Gents, 

I recently purchased an R32 gts-t Mspec coupe for a reasonable price (I think). The reason it was cheap is because it isn't road legal and requires some chassis repairs before it can be certified and road legal here in NZ.  The previous owner had owned it for 20years and imported it over from AU to NZ 8 years ago (2015) with intentions of eventually getting it certified here in NZ. 

He finally started this process a few months ago to find that it has un-repaired A-pillar damage, in additon to a poor repair to the front chassis rail (both damages on the drivers side) and he doesnt have the resources or time to repair it.

Apart from this, the car has been extreamly well kept, garaged it's whole life and is in presitine condition for it's age. 

My question for you legends is this; Do you think the damage to the pillar and/or chassis rail is repairable without having to completely chop/replace the damaged area? Or even worse, a full front end cut to replace? I'm really hoping this can be repaired with hydraulic pulls and extensive panel beating instead. 

Also keen to know how major you would score this damage; From 1 being "minor - crack on with it" and 10 being "don't even bother mate - she's cooked" 

Cheers fellas

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Edited by Skida6453
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It's impossible to see/say what the deal with the chassis rail is. It's no biggie if it needs to be cut out and new metal folded up to replace it. It's just a lot of work. Can be uneconomic to repair if it's an insurance job, but when it is being done for lover, it is perfectly doable. But as I said, impossible to see what it is.

The "A pillar" damage, I presume is the bit that worries you the most. Looks like it would all be beatable. But it would likely take someone with the knack to get it straight and true, so that everything is in the right place and the door doesn't start hanging funny, etc.

18 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

What was your intention when you bought the car, did you plan to repair it yourself or were you planning to find a shop to do the work for you?

Intention was to strip it all back to the required level to get access to the repairs, provide replacement panels if needed, engage a reputable repair certfier a workshop to do the the repairs, before re-assembling myself and getting NZ LVV.

1 hour ago, Skida6453 said:

Intention was to strip it all back to the required level to get access to the repairs, provide replacement panels if needed, engage a reputable repair certfier a workshop to do the the repairs, before re-assembling myself and getting NZ LVV.

Sounds good. Have you started approaching any workshops yet? It doesn't sound like your plan needs to change from what you intended to do from the start.

18 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

It's impossible to see/say what the deal with the chassis rail is. It's no biggie if it needs to be cut out and new metal folded up to replace it. It's just a lot of work. Can be uneconomic to repair if it's an insurance job, but when it is being done for lover, it is perfectly doable. But as I said, impossible to see what it is.

The "A pillar" damage, I presume is the bit that worries you the most. Looks like it would all be beatable. But it would likely take someone with the knack to get it straight and true, so that everything is in the right place and the door doesn't start hanging funny, etc.

Thanks for the reply GTSBoy. I have always wanted to own a factory turbo/manual gts-t in black and this was the only way to aquire one without coming up with another house deposit... so im ready to spend what I need to get it road worthy again.

Agree about the chassis rail - I am already on the hunt for a replacement chassis rail as I think this will be the best option for that repair.

And you are correct about the A pillar damage - I really dont want to have to replace that whole quater as its far more invasive and costly. The door closses fine currently and the guard lines up so fingers crossed it can be beated.

I stripped out the dash and carpet today and have found a minor ding/push on the lower firewall/inner guard just behind the accelerator, and the sill has bowed on the inside - pressumibly pushed up when the underside was damaged. Photos attached.

I have a 3D scan with the original repair certifier in a few weeks time so will be interesting to see what that comes back with.

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1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Sounds good. Have you started approaching any workshops yet? It doesn't sound like your plan needs to change from what you intended to do from the start.

Not yet but ill likely go with who the repair certifier recommends. I have a 3D scan with them in a few weeks time so will see what he says after that. Now that the interior is removed he should be able to asses it better.

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