Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 gtst reverse light not working

Manur33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Manur33 Rookie

Manur33

Posted
Posted

Hi team, my r33 reverse lights just stop working . It’s a factory manual and i check the bulbs they are good. I checked the reverse switch plug on gbox and bridge it, the reverse lights didn't glow. I check the switch with multimeter no voltage coming up. Can anybody shade what could i check next.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Get the wiring diagram. Work out which wires have power and earth and at what times (ie, switch opened/closed). Then grab your multimeter and look for those voltages and work out what is wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Find the lamps. Find the battery. Find the switch. Follow the wires (black lines) between them. Print it out on a bunch of A4s and stick it together with tape if you need to.

It's a worthwhile endeavour.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

OK....so to trace that, per the diagram.

You said you bridged the switch at the gearbox and the lights don't turn on. Per p8 that is plug 61 with reference A31. BTW are you sure you bridged the reverse switch because the neutral switch looks very similar....

The "Main Wiring Diagram" is the conceptual one you should start with. Reverse Lights are in the middle of p6. It shows wires LR01 and LR02 go from the reverse lamps (connectors T34 and T38) to the Reverse Light Switch A-31 which you said you bridged to test.

LR03 is the Positive Input to that switch, it joins to MJ01 in the loom with a lot of other Ignition 12v stuff and goes to Ignition Fuse #12 10A.  Ignition Fuse #12 and other things are fed by Ignition Relay R16 (which is located in the Fuse Box at the Driver's knee marked 37 on p11). Power to the Ignition Relay comes from the 65A fuse in the boot FL14.

So to play that all back....you should have 12v at one of the Reverse switch pins with the Ignition on. 

If you don't, check Fuse 12 (I believe it is last on the left column at driver's knee marked "Electrics"), then relay 16 (unlikely to be an issue unless other things are not working), then big Fusable link FL14.  If both fuses and the relay are OK and you don't have power at the switch, you have a power supply wiring issue which might be easiest to fix just by running a new wire to the switch.

If you do have 12v at one side of the switch with Ignition on, you have a wiring (or globe) issue between the switch and the tail lights, or the tail lights are not earthed properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Manur33 said:

Yes , i check both switch neutral got power but reverse don’t

Well, the other end of one of those wires should go to ground (maybe via the globe) and the other end should have 12V (maybe having come via the globe). The wire is not solid copper along its full length right now. So..... go looking for where it is not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • klutched
      GOT SUM's RB34

      By klutched · Posted

      This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • carnoobb
      Newbies

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • sonicii
      Newbies

      By sonicii · Posted

      215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...