Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

Anyone running this rear diffuser? Was just curious can I just install the center diffuser without the side fins or do the side fins act as supports to the whole piece? 
 

just in Hong Kong and the police will pull me over running the side fins I suspect. 
 

photo attached. 
 

thanks 

IMG_0672.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485358-r32-top-secret-rear-diffuser/
Share on other sites

On 19/03/2024 at 6:16 AM, GTSBoy said:

The side bits just dangle in the breeze. They don't do anything. Neither does the rest of it, without a flat floor and some time spent testing to find out how low you need to make the car to gain any effect.

so essentially I dont need to add the sides and can just add the back section if I wanted? 

Need to add the additional lip on the front of the car on top of the top secret lip and also the back to make the car look lower ... the car sits super high right now ... I have coil overs and will continue to lower them but worry about rubbing. If i want to also tuck the tires in what route do I have to go - charge control arms or does everyone just roll the fenders? I mean I just worry I will crack the paint with rolling as its original paint now. 

 

Thanks

The rear wheel/guard position is a whole topic on its own.

Do you know what size and offset wheels you have?

In general, if you lower the ride height you gain camber which tucks the top of your tyres inside the guard. Depending on tyre width (careful) guard rolling is very commonly required.

It is much  more common to need to add adjustable bushes to reduce, not increase, the camber once the car is lowered a little.

22 hours ago, Duncan said:

The rear wheel/guard position is a whole topic on its own.

Do you know what size and offset wheels you have?

In general, if you lower the ride height you gain camber which tucks the top of your tyres inside the guard. Depending on tyre width (careful) guard rolling is very commonly required.

It is much  more common to need to add adjustable bushes to reduce, not increase, the camber once the car is lowered a little.

Running 10J x 18 et25 bbs lm. With potenza sport 18 x 265/35 … photo before I dropped the height more. 
 

can we roll the fenders without damaging the paint u think? 
 

Shop eas talking about adjusting the camber with new arms… 

0ae9f9f0-9530-45fe-a9a1-2f1964eed4e2.jpeg

Measure the vertical distance from wheel centre to guard.

image.png.6bd464e1fc1b3fa201f10d5013dc59c7.png

If it is <345-350mm, do not consider going any lower. Should not be any lower than that, otherwise the LCAs will be at the wrong angle and you'll not have good handling. Although I'm guessing that in HK looks are more important than performance anyway.

As Duncan already said, when you lower the car you gain -ve camber anyway, which tucks the tops in more. But....as he also said, adjustable arms are usually used to wind some of that extra -ve camber back out, not increase -ve.

  • Thanks 1
23 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Measure the vertical distance from wheel centre to guard.

image.png.6bd464e1fc1b3fa201f10d5013dc59c7.png

If it is <345-350mm, do not consider going any lower. Should not be any lower than that, otherwise the LCAs will be at the wrong angle and you'll not have good handling. Although I'm guessing that in HK looks are more important than performance anyway.

As Duncan already said, when you lower the car you gain -ve camber anyway, which tucks the tops in more. But....as he also said, adjustable arms are usually used to wind some of that extra -ve camber back out, not increase -ve.

This is interesting … I will go and measure. I see everyone running alot lower to be honest with u. Yeah I really like a good seamless look but I like performance also. My car will be running around 550hp … and it handles amazing right now

On 21/3/2024 at 9:17 AM, GTSBoy said:

Measure the vertical distance from wheel centre to guard.

image.png.6bd464e1fc1b3fa201f10d5013dc59c7.png

If it is <345-350mm, do not consider going any lower. Should not be any lower than that, otherwise the LCAs will be at the wrong angle and you'll not have good handling. Although I'm guessing that in HK looks are more important than performance anyway.

As Duncan already said, when you lower the car you gain -ve camber anyway, which tucks the tops in more. But....as he also said, adjustable arms are usually used to wind some of that extra -ve camber back out, not increase -ve.

This is interesting … I will go and measure. I see everyone running alot lower to be honest with u. Yeah I really like a good seamless look but I like performance also. My car will be running around 550hp … and it handles amazing right now

don't roll the fenders, I have been in this position before and had to make a choice between rolling the fenders or adding camber to fit wheels that didn't quite fit I thought about it for a while and added camber. The wheels are now gone I have better fitting wheels and i'm grateful I didn't mess up the body work. Even if you don't crack the paint a rolled lip on the rear guards is a prime spot for water, debris, dirt, leaves to get stuck and rust.

15 hours ago, morboost said:

don't roll the fenders, I have been in this position before and had to make a choice between rolling the fenders or adding camber to fit wheels that didn't quite fit I thought about it for a while and added camber. The wheels are now gone I have better fitting wheels and i'm grateful I didn't mess up the body work. Even if you don't crack the paint a rolled lip on the rear guards is a prime spot for water, debris, dirt, leaves to get stuck and rust.

Awesome thanks. How u adjust the camber? What kit or tie arms did u buy to adjust it? 
 

thanks 

I used adjustment bushes in the factory arms, this is the superpro part number: SPF1869K for your application this kit goes in your rear upper control arms and traction rod arms its important to move the camber arm and castor arm the same distance in the rear to avoid axle tramp you will get +/- 1 degree camber adjustment plus the factory adjustment bolt for fine tuning. For the front use part number: SPF1659K for camber and use part number: SPF1202AK for front caster. Once these bushes are fitted everything looks oem, if you don't care about that and plan to track your car you might be better off to change to adjustable arms as fitting the bushes is time consuming but road legal in Australia.

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Adjustable length arms are legal in Oz. It's just spherical joints that are not legal (unless engineered). It is a pure myth that adjustable arms are an instant defect.

I have adjustable arms all over my daily driven 10000km/yr car. And some of them even have (very sneaky) spherical joints in them.

FWIW, for an R32, the ONLY way to have adjustable camber worth a damn in the front, is to use the GKTech FUCAs. They are a complete pain in the arse to work with on a streeter, but they are the only ones that don't bend or break and yet still do all the things that they absolutely have to do. Every other FUCA option on the R32 is a waste of time. I have used adjustable poly bushes in stock arms. They flog out badly. I have used the I shaped one from (I can't remember where right now, but have posted extensively on the topic so you could search if you cared) and they flog out and bend at the spot where they pivot in the centre. The pivoting in the centre is the feature that led me to try them, as the rigid stock style and almost every other aftermarket arm loads up the bushings massively (causing the flogging out) because the Nissan boys did not sort out the kinematics of the arms properly. This is why they changed completely for the R33&4.

On the rear, adjustable length uppers and traction rods. Then you have to make yourself a bump steer gauge so you can adjust the traction rod length to give the smallest amount of bump steer. You can't just guess and and you can't just guess when you use adjustable poly bushes there either (although there is far less possibility of f**king it up with poly bushes because they don't offer 3/10th of f**k all adjustment).

  • Thanks 1

Thanks for the info. I think the adjustable control arms are the way to go then. If lowering my car another 10mm to 15mm doesn’t cover it. I am wary also that I might rub at this height? Haven’t had any issues at the current height as I have flocked her on some heavy corners. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...