Jump to content
SAU Community

How to change Nitrogen Accumulator Cannister - Attesa

Deza3000

By Deza3000,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Deza3000 Proficient

Deza3000

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi All,

Thought i'd post an official translated guide from Nissan on how to remove a Nitrogen Accumulator Cannister. A friend was kind enough to translate the official Japanese doco for me with no ambiguity. I've seen a few videos and articles of people spending days trying to remove it... We spent 10 minutes... Didnt even have to remove the Attesa assembly from the car.. All we used was an oil filter removal tool.

Common mistake is people dont depressurise the Canister before removal resulting it to be almost impossible to remove - similar to a air tight jar of pickles. 

1. Depressurising the hydraulic unit

Must take pressure off from the hydraulic unit before removing the unit from a car body - Can be done by loosening front part of cannister (before the Hex bolt)
(Refer to service technical information no. 1891 for more detailed instructions)


2. Removal of the hydraulic unit assembly from the car body
Refer to the car service manual for the instructions.


3. Removal of the accumulator from the hydraulic unit
Loosen the accumulator using a pipe wrench while holding the thread part with rags to prevent oil spillage. Undo slow by hands ensuring the accumulator unit is facing downwards so that no debris would fall into the assembly unit.


4. Threads preparation before installation
Clean thoroughly to remove all excess glues left on the threads.


5. Installation of the accumulator unit
Apply 1.5-2.0 threads length of thread locker (three-bond 1324 equivalent) to centre position of the threads on the accumulator.
Apply "Nissan power steering fluid special" all over the O-ring.
Fit the accumulator unit into the hydraulic unit by hand with full strength then tighten using a pipe wrench holding a head section of the unit with set torque of
39-41 Nm. (As reference it is equivalent to 8 degrees or 5mm on circumference.
Refer to the diagram below)
 

image.thumb.png.8d06ddb536139da950193abeaa28d187.png

From top (Apply "three bond 1324" / Head
section / O-ring)
NB: If you scratch the surface of the unit, re-paint with anti-rust spray.
 

6. Disposal of the accumulator unit
Follow the label instruction for proper disposal of the unit.

 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.281265c4be110772810116cc9cca7937.jpeg

Edited by Deza3000
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Thanks, that is a really valuable post, I've moved the thread to the DIY section and added it to the DIY threads index

I take it skipped step 2 and just loosened and removed it with the oil filter wrench?

Deza3000 Proficient

Deza3000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No worries! Cheers.

Yep I skipped step 2 and just loosed with the oil filter wrench, wasn't too keen on disconnecting the high pressure lines. I did loosen the brackets from the mount and had it dangling so i had a bit of clearance. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • Kinkstaah
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...