Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only logic and I know this is flawed to my staged pumps is the chance of detecting a pump failure. With both running all the time if one dies you won't know. With one primary if that dies you know, the second yes will be a mystery but at least you have a 50% chance ?

Either way though safeties are super important in dual setups.  I've wondered about putting an Amp meter on as extra safety but then you just should buy a PDM :D

 

53 minutes ago, Butters said:

chance of detecting a pump failure

Your ECU's engine protection should pick this up easily. 

Just recently my ECU alerted me to lower then usual fuel pressure caused by a failing car battery. I'd be absolutely blown away if the ECU couldn't tell that you only had half the pumps you should have lol. 

  • Like 1

Injector pressure differential set, base pressure set, and let the ECU/engine protection do the work.

I'm assuming the ballers with MoTecs could even do closed loop fuel pump duty cycle to maintain pressure, where as the commoners on Haltechs need to just stick with a static table and engine protection to kill off torque when fuel pressure drops off 

On 31/05/2024 at 12:00 AM, Butters said:

using a map with TPS and duty cycle with a slight delay on the off. 

The second pump only really needs to come on when flat out. 

Thats interesting.. Both my pumps are on at all times.

 

On 31/05/2024 at 9:15 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Correct, I used to run 1x SSR for both pumps, but the inner OCD in me wanted 1x SSR per pump, so here we are :D 

image.thumb.png.53d63e2a478341f01c245a3f6e17981d.png

Flyback diodes built into the harness

image.thumb.png.912c5e79f6d7e57fb4df253d4a9f8a92.png

image.thumb.png.2d287a3e2bfea574f3184f0270908ba5.png

 

Here's my DC table

image.thumb.png.86e58259f9246a6a99712008df28173a.png

Exact setup as me, except I only have 1 SSR that drives both my pumps..Walbro 525's. This would be why my fuels heating up.

Wonder how much work it would be to add another SSR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...