Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣

I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics.

My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar?

is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end?

I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485548-stupid-hicas-question/
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, JeffWithaJ said:

Hey

I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣

I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics.

My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar?

is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end?

I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?

You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 

Edited by TurboTapin
  • 2 weeks later...

Weird thing I found on my GT-R, unplug the smaller plug on the HICAS computer, you retain the "variable steering" (below 70 km/h you get lighter steering/more assist), but it stops the stupid computer from killing you (a.k.a. the HICAS kick).

They're all the same. The GK-Tech one might be ever so slightly more stiff/rigid than he others because they provide the mounts for the arms on the end of that centre bar rather than just bolt on brackets. But the bolt on brackets versions are just emulating the way the non-HICAS subframes do it anyway. The toe control arms are just mounted in basically the same way on the Nissan version.

  • 2 months later...

Hey this maybe a silly question. But I've recently purchased a delete kit. The guide I was following instructs you to delete all the lines from the hicus power steering pump and to de-vain the pump. I followed the lines and it goes to the power steering cooler.

My question is do I need this?

Should I be plumbing this back up to create cooled loop back to the pump from the res? 

 

 

Edited by R32 GTR KID

If it's just a streeter, then you'll probably never work it hard enough to actually require a PS cooler of any sort. But I not only retained the cooler....I installed an auto tranny cooler in place of the shitty little pipe loop. I wont no excuses for excess heat causing me any troubles, even if my car is 99.998% street.

So, yes. plumb the loop back into the low pressure return to the pump. Or go one better like I did.

Or.... don't de-vane the R32 pump and just run the loop only through the cooler instead of via the back of the car. Same same with less work.

  • Thanks 1

Thanks @GTSBoy I drive the car pretty hard and have only tracked once. But I will follow your lead and get a better cooler to plumb back. 

 

Have you de-vaned your pump? I just wanted to get rid of the solenoids in the engine bay as takes up so much space. Hence the delete option.  But also trying to save the power steering from failure due to pumping to nothing. 

 

Appreciate your help Ive been a long time lurker of the site and have seen your helpful comments and inputs on other posts over the years. 

 

11 minutes ago, R32 GTR KID said:

Have you de-vaned your pump?

Nah. But yes. But nah. I did my entire HICAS delete when I also did a Neo transplant. The R34 PS pump was the logical choice to retain on the engine, so I have effectively de-vaned the pump without actually doing so. If I had been keeping the R32 pump for any reason, I would have just kept the rear stage and run it through the cooler, as I advised above. Seems sensible. 'Twere I you, that's what I'd do.

Getting rid of the HICAS solenoids in the bay is a good idea, but whether you do or don't is not really connected to whether you de-vane the pump, or do or don't plumb the cooler into the front stage loop or the rear stage loop. You will have to reroute some lines regardless of what you do.

It is MUCH easier to do all this with the engine out, which is why I saved the job up for the engine transplant.

If you do de-vane it then make sure you plumb the cooler in on the low pressure return from the rack. You do not want to be doing on the HP side.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...